Valle di Daone
By: Stefania Pellizzari
Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige, Town: Daone (Trento)
The Daone Valley is located in the Trentino region of the famous Adamello massif, more precisely it is a side valley of Valle del Chiese; the source of river Chiese is the Adamello glacier and it river runs along the entire valley. Thanks to its wild natural habitat, rich fauna and the particular U-shaped upper section, this valley is of breathtaking beauty. The absence of towns and building, except for a few characteristic barns dotted here and there, add to the tranquility that sets this valley apart, rendering this a truly heavenly corner of the Alps.
The valley starts from the village at 686m and the road continues for 21 km to the Bissina dam at 1700m. Above this an easy path leads in to what now transforms into Val di Fumo, the gateway to the the Adamello Brenta Natural Park.
Valle di Daone is famous above all for its numerous outstanding ice falls, and after this initial development multi-pitch climbs were added to the valley and, more recently, bouldering. The valley lends itself so much to this sport that some have described it as a new Mecca for bouldering. Countless granite boulders tumbled down from the sides of the valley thousands of years ago offering a huge array of problems from 4C to 8B. Sectors very considerably, from those immersed in the lush forest to those exposed to the sun and picturesque Piana di Nudole. In short, there's certainly something for everyone!
As far as we know, the first problems were climbed towards the end of the 90s, discovered and cleaned by climbers from various regions, including Max Faletti, Andrea Tomasi, Bruno Ferrari, Alessandro Gandolfo and the Arco friends, Marco Savio and friends from Vincenza, Stefano Montanari (author of the guidebook Daone Prog) and friends from Brescia, Roberto Parisse, Roberto Armando, Stefano Solfrini, Juri Chiaramonte. A special mention goes to Roberto Moreschi who left us prematurely a few years ago; he was the first to document the problems at the Curva sector.
There are currently 7 sectors with circa 600 problems, spread out over 15km and 800m altitude difference, meaning that climbing is possible almost all year round. Attractive both in summer and winter, Valle di Daone is just waiting to be discovered and respected!
Daone Prog, Blocchi sul granito dell'Adamello di Stefano Montanari, Versante Sud
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