Last August the Italians Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri completed their new route up M.te Donneittu (Codula de Luna, Sardinia). The route, called Amico Fragile and graded 7c+/8a had been previsouly attempted in October 2005 by Vago together with Fabrizio Fratagnoli and then Matteo Della Bordella.
The route tackles the massive central overhang of Mt. Donneneittu, the rock face recommend for its beautiful routes (including HLF) and for being above the grandiose Su Palu cave, with extends inwards for over 40 km. The entire area is remote and wild, still untouched and often visited only by cavers and climbers in search of silence and solitude.
The overhang is tackled from the 3rd pitch onwards: it overhangs 30/35° for 80m, making an abseil almost impossible, unless a static rope is placed between the 4th and second belay. All pitches have been freed but on different days, meaning that the first one-day redpoint still awaits.
The mid-pitches are the hardest and climb through the overhang up a series of tufas. According to the first ascentionists though the first two pitches should not be underestimated as the spaced protection and fragile rock render the start psychologically demanding.
Monte Donneittu, Codula de Luna, Sardinia
Pitches: 6b, 6c, 7c+/8a, 7c+, 7b, 6a, 6b+, 6a+
Grade: 7c+/8a max; 7a obl.
NB: Take care during the first two pitches up the vertical face and friable edges. The pro, in particular at the start of the first pitch, needs careful attention.
Gear two 60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, BD camming devices from 0.5 to 3 (last 3 pitches); slings
Descent: abseil down the nearby "LINEA BLU"
Further info: write to email@example.com
PARTNERSHIP: Eider - Viking - Salice occhiali - Metolius
Photo: arch. Ragni Lecco