|On 10 October Fabrizio Droetto repeated Noia, the legendary 8c+ at Andonno, first ascended by Severino Scassa in 1993. Fabrizio had sent the first part, Noi 8b+, in May this year and needed 7 more attempts spread out over 3 days to connect the traverse rightwards and finish up Cobra (8b).
At the start of August Droetto had sent another 8c+ "L'estrema cura plus" at Gravere (Val di Susa). His joy after sending Noia is palpable: "I was really happy, adrenaline was rushing through my veins and after untieing I quickly gathered my gear and I ran back down to the car to celebrate!!"
To find out more about the 24 year old check out his new site and to find out more about Noia read the brief description published below, sent to us by none other than Seve Scassa himself after the first female repeat by Josune Bereziartu.
NOIA 8 c+, Andonno (CN) by Severino Scassa
30m, 55 moves, 13 bolts and one chipped hold.
Freed on 14 February 1993 after just a few attempts.
Noia links Noi 8b+ with Cobra 8b via a horizontal traverse.
The first stamina section up pockets leads to a powerful lock on small edges before continuing via a crack to a rest at the start of the traverse.
Five hard moves on good but spaced underclings and poor footholds lead through the traverse. Two vertical edges constitute a rest at the end of the traverse, just before the final 7 moves up sloping pockets. The last three are precarious, in particular the dyno beneath the finishing roof. Linking all is the hard, but the difficulties then ease off and the final 5m of 7a ground lead more easily to the chain.
This is a total stamina route, perhaps the first of its kind in the world. It really trashes your skin! Congratulations to Josune and Rikardo.