|On 12 January Yuri Parimbelli made the first repeat of Damocle, the superb ice drip first ascended by Simone Moro in 2000 in Valleve, Valle Brembana, N. Italy. |
The icefall is graded 6/6+ and rarely forms completely (Moro can remember 1985, 2000 and 2006). Parimbelli made the most of the 2006 biting cold to carry out the second ascent. The 40+ meter drip has a minimum diameter of only 2 meters and Parimbelli needed just half an hour to reach the precarious top, placing six ice screws and climbing without leashes.
Simone Moro continues his training regime for the 8000m peaks with a diet of dry tooling. He has recently freed "Open Day", a dry tooling testpiece he believes is the hardest in the area. But there is more to come. He is currently working on a project which starts in the back of the Damocle cave and enables the drip to be reached just beneath the leap when this doesn't form... Stay tuned for more.