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Zero gravity days

26.10.2005 by

Patxi Usobiaga becomes the third person in the world to on-sight an 8c, 'Gaua' at Lezain (N. Spain). Wolfgang Güllich's Action Direct 9a has been repeated by Dai Koyamada and Markus Bock. Martina Cufar on-sights Paieda' 8a+ at Rodellar, Spain and Fred Rouhling makes the first ascent of "La voie du charpentier" 8c at Allonzier la caille, France

Gravity seems to be losing much of its attraction these days. Testament to this are the staggering number of recent cutting edge ascents: here's a short resume of what's been going up, and where.

Patxi Usobiaga 8c on-sight
Patxi Usobiaga from Spain becomes the third person in the world to on-sight an 8c, after Yuji Hirayama (White Zombie, Baltzola Cave) and Tomas Mrazek (Pata Negra, Rodellar). The Spaniard on-sighted 'Gaua' 8c at Lezain (N. Spain), and completed his amazing trip with lightening ascents of 'Pistolaren mintzoa' 8c+ and 'Satán' 8b+ (both 2nd go) and 'Beldurra' 8a+ (on-sight).

Action Direct repeats
After reporting about Rich Simpson's sixth ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's Action Direct, the all-time classic 9a received a further two ascents in a week by Dai Koyamada from Japan and local Markus Bock from Germany.

Fred Rouhling 8c f.a.
Fred Rouhling from France continues forging new routes: this time he has made the first ascent of "La voie du charpentier" at Allonzier la caille, Haute-Savoie, France. Graded 8c, the fingery route is 18m long.

Martina Cufar 8a+ on-sight
On a recent trip to Rodellar, Spain Martina Cufar from Slovenia on-sighted 'Paieda' 8a+ and a string on 8a's.

Links PlanetMountain
News archive Usobiaga
News archive Action Direct
News archive Fred Rouhling
News archive Matina Cufar
Climbing at Rodellar
Hirayama world's first 8c on-sight!
Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!
Links www

Fred Rouhling
Photo top: Patxi Usobiaga on-sighting Gaua 8c
Photo bottom: Fred Rouhling making the first ascent of La voie du charpentier 8c .
photo Fredéric Moix





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