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On-sights and redpoints

25.10.2004 by

A brief resumè of hard ascents by Markus Bendler, Steve McClure, Gérôme Pouvreau, Martina Cufar, Tomàs Mrazek, Patxi Usobiaga, Ueli Steck and Ines Papert.

It seems to be all happening these days, and it's hard to keep up with what is going on outdoors... Here's a brief resumé of the latest ascents, in country-alphabetical order.


Austria
Markus Bendler has freed "Gwagus Maximus" 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Tyrol. The route, which takes a central line through the main overhang, had been eyed by many in the past and reportedly waited for 15 years before being freed. Congratulations to all for the patience!


England
Steve McClure has freed the direct finish to Martin Atkinsons "Mecca the Midlife crisis". McClure's new meters weigh in at F8c+ and are yet another of "strong Steve's" additions to this British limestone reference crag.


France
Ex-world Champion Gérôme Pouvreau has been active at Saint Léger du Ventoux, where he freed an old project, as yet unnamed, graded 8c+. At Ste Victoire he freed "Aubade", which weighs in at the same grade.


Slovenia
Martina Cufar, fresh from Sardinian holiday, has redpointed the 40m stamina testpiece Millenium 8b+ at Misja Pec. Current World Champion Tomàs Mrazek made short work of the same route, on-sighting it in preparations for the World Cup in Aprica this weekend, before on-sighting Samsara Up 8b!


Spain
Patxi Usobiaga continues where he left off... by on-sighting "Taladrina" 8b+ at Cuenca. This is his sixth 8b+ on-sight ever! Unbelievable.


Switzerland
Last but by no means least, both Ueli Steck and Ines Papert have successfully repeated 'Last Exit Titlis', the 13 pitch route first climbed by Stefan Glowacz and Markus Dorfleitner in early August this year. Steck and Papert felt the "beautiful multipitch route on the secluded and scenic Titlis east face" to be 8a+.


Ueli Steck
Ueli Steck repeating "Last Exit Titlis"

photo: mountain-dreams.ch
News archive McClure
News archive Pouvreau
News archive Cufar
News archive Mrazek
News archive Usobiaga
News archive Papert
Sources
www.ffme.fr
www.8a.nu
www.planetfear.com
www.ueli-steck.com
www.ines-papert.de
www.martinacufar.com
www.patxiusobiaga.com

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