News sent in from the editors of russianclimb and the Italian Simone Moro report that Denis Urubko reached the summit of Broad Peak on Friday morning at 8:10 a.m. local time. As announced last week, the Kazak mountaineer helped JC Lafaille to descend to Base Camp after the Frenchman encountered pulmonary problems high on Broad Peak. After the rescue Urubko immediately returned to summit the 8047m high mountain.
Urubko is a member of the International Pakistan Expedition, which set 12 mountaineers on the summit of Broad Peak in just four days: Simone Moro, Inaki Ochoa, Ed Viesturs and JC Lafaille summited on July 15, Piztov, Chumakov and Yumaiev on July 16, and Bogomolov, Lavrov, Litvinov and Raspopov one day later. The International Pakistan Expedition will now rest for a couple of days before heading off to K2.
The Broad Peak drama is the most recent addition to Urubko's high altitude rescues: in 2001 he helped the Polish mountaineer Anna Czervinska and her Sherpa out of difficulties on Lhotse, while in February 2003 he carried out a dramatic recovery high on K2. After spending the night at 7750m during the daring winter attempt, Urubko's climbing partner Marcin Kaczkan suddenly developed Acute Mountain Sickness. As many will remember, Urubko helped Marcin descend to base Camp, together with with Krzysztof Wielicki, who burnt his tent whilst melting water during the rescue efforts...
Photo: Broad Peak (arch. Simone Moro).