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Mauro Calibani makes the first ascent of Is not always Pasqua E9 7a

28.10.2002 by

On 15 October Mauro Calibani makes the first ascent of Is not always Pasqua E9 7a at at Collina di Interprete, Mount Sibillines National Park, Central Italy.

The Italian climber Mauro Calibani has recently been making a name for himself not only for his hard bouldering, but also for his hard bold ascents.

As a result of the “Hard Grit” fever he travelled to England's Peak District, where a brief visit in spring 2002 resulted in a number of impressive ascents, including the famous boulder problem Brad Pitt (FB 8a), and the routes Renegade Master E7 7a and an on-sight ascent of Messiah E6 6c, all situated at Stanage, Sheffield.

Back at home Calibani immediately got to work on an overhanging open corner located at Collina di Interprete, Mount Sibillines National Park, Central Italy. Conditions proved to hot for this dangerous line, which is protected by few small nuts and two cams of a Friend #4; on 15 October the friction was ideal and with astounding nonchalance Calibani made the first ascent of “Is not always Pasqua”. Suggested grade E9 7a or, put in other terms, Fb7c+ or F8b.

On the same day his climbing partner Roberto Fantozzi made the first ascent of nearby “Your bad dad” E7 6c (Fb7a, F7b/c), repeated immediately by Stefano Romanucci and Calibani. Not bad for a day's work.



text and photo by Andrea Gallo

  Calibani news archive
  Climbing at Stanage, England

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