Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowSard Grit, clean climbing in Sardinia

Sard Grit, clean climbing in Sardinia

01.06.2001 by

Inspired by the British "Hard grit" ethic, Maurizio Oviglia discovers and climbs new routes on basalt seacliff together with Simone Sarti on island just off Sardinia

After four months of searching the Italian Maurizio Oviglia finally managed to find what he had been looking for: a crag similar to those rendered famous by the British video “Hard Grit”, where he could establish new routes using only natural gear for protection.

Last Easter he discovered a largely untouched basalt sea cliff on lsola di San Pietro, a tiny island just off the south coast of Sardinia. He returned together with Simone Sarti in the middle of May and climbed 25 new routes using only nuts and friends to protect the lovely cracklines and placed resin belays beyond the lip.

At present the routes vary from 5c to 7a+/7b, but some routes on this 15m high crag test the leader’s psychological state of mind as ground falls are common. You’ve been warned!



A taste of Sard Grit by Mattia Vacca
Left: Maurizio Oviglia attacks "Anxiety" (7a+)

Right Simone Sarti on "The witch" (7a/b).
Photos Mattia Vacca

Share

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Skotonata galatika
    Passati ormai quasi 20 anni dall'apertura della suddetta via ...
    2013-04-27 / Ivano Zanetti
  • Gianduiotto by night
    non è una salita particolarmente meritevole, c'è un muro a ...
    2013-03-09 / galimberti giovanni
  • Icterus
    ciao Armin, non lascio commenti per sentito dire, la via Ict ...
    2012-11-25 / toni zuech
  • Spigolo del Velo
    La fama è all'altezza della via. veramente magnifica sotto ...
    2012-11-13 / Renzo Bragantini