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Sard Grit, clean climbing in Sardinia

01.06.2001 by

Inspired by the British "Hard grit" ethic, Maurizio Oviglia discovers and climbs new routes on basalt seacliff together with Simone Sarti on island just off Sardinia

After four months of searching the Italian Maurizio Oviglia finally managed to find what he had been looking for: a crag similar to those rendered famous by the British video “Hard Grit”, where he could establish new routes using only natural gear for protection.

Last Easter he discovered a largely untouched basalt sea cliff on lsola di San Pietro, a tiny island just off the south coast of Sardinia. He returned together with Simone Sarti in the middle of May and climbed 25 new routes using only nuts and friends to protect the lovely cracklines and placed resin belays beyond the lip.

At present the routes vary from 5c to 7a+/7b, but some routes on this 15m high crag test the leader’s psychological state of mind as ground falls are common. You’ve been warned!



A taste of Sard Grit by Mattia Vacca
Left: Maurizio Oviglia attacks "Anxiety" (7a+)

Right Simone Sarti on "The witch" (7a/b).
Photos Mattia Vacca

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