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New route at Buoux

14.02.2001 by

In January Cristian Brenna visited Buoux and flashed 'Chouca' (8a+) and, in just two attempts, climbed ‘La rose et le vampire’ 8b and a new 8b+ by Antoine le Mènestrel



Cristian Brenna in action, somewhere, sometime
      Whoever would have thought that there's an unknown new 8b+ at Buoux? And that this 50m route climbs a line through the overhanging ‘Bout du monde’? Yes, the sector where routes such as ‘Chouca’, ‘La rose et le vampire’ and ‘Minimum’, to mention but a few, made sports climbing history in the '80's.

Well, this route certainly exists. Freed this summer by Antoine le Ménestrel, this completely natural line shares the same start as Chouca and then moves left at the fifth bolt to continue independently to the top of the face, at the "end of the world". An enormous, 50m journey with only one rest at half-height to reach game over. A game which Cristian Brenna finished second go in January.

On his lightening trip to this crag in the Luberon, Brenna also climbed Antoine's ‘La rose et le vampire 8b’ second go and flashed ‘Chouca’, 8a+, freed by Antoine's brother Marc le Ménestrel in the '80's. But Brenna's fondest memory is that of this beautiful new route who's name, up until now, remains unknown to us. Congratulations to Antoine who saw and imagined the possible…



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