|Simone Moro on his return from Everest gives details of his ascent with Denis Urubku. |
thank you for the news about my ascent of Everest. I just wanted to add some details.
I used supplementary oxygen on Everest between 8000m and 8400m only. I then closed the tap and climbed to the summit and descended without oxygen. I fell ill after having been on the South Col for three days and nights without oxygen while waiting for the best moment to make a summit bid (and not on the first day I arrived at 8000m).
I vomited not because of the altitude but because some food I ate had gone off. I vomited all night and it felt like I was bringing up blood (it wasn't - it was bile). Because of this I accepted the Americans' offer (and listened to the voice of reason) to use oxygen.
Although they gave me two bottles I only used 1/3 of one of them. I set the air flow at 1 (the valve can be regulated from 1 to 6). The bottles (American, not Russian) weighed 7kg each and I kept one in my rucksack during the entire ascent (it was snowing so I wouldn't have found them again had I left them somewhere - what a useless load!). I then carried the bottles, mask and breathing apparatus back down to Base Camp.
My ascent was "with oxygen" as I have always stated but I really do feel that I can do it without (Denis confirmed that I don't need that "gas"). Because of this and because I'm sure that the Everest-Lhotse Traverse is possible, I'll be back.
(Simone Moro on the summit of Everest - Simone Moro archive)