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Rätikon - 3rd repeat of Silbergeier

02.07.1999 by

Pietro dal Prà repeats Beat Kammerlander's mythical Silbergeier 8b+ in the Rätikon in just three goes.

On the 24th of June 1999, the Mountain Guide Pietro del Pra made the 4th ascent of Silbergeier, on the 4th Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon, Swiss Alps. One of the hardest multi-pitch sports routes in the world, it was first put up by the Austrian Beat Kammerlander in 1993 and freed in 1994. The 6 highly technical pitches (8b,7c+,8a+,7a+,8b/b+,7c+) are on excellent compact limestone and were bolted on lead, resulting in some severe run-outs. Silbergeier was repeated by Peter Schäffler in 1997 and Stefan Glowacz in 1998.

Pietro had made a previous visit to the Rätikon in October 1998 (see the Pietro del Pra interview) and attempts this time were restricted to only two 1/2 days (abandoned because of too much alcohol with Beat the night before and a snow storm). After the snow fall and three rest days Pietro, accompanied by Pio Jutz, went back to the route, intent on working the first pitch and checking out the others. But after climbing the first pitch 3rd go, he decided to give the rest his best shot. Unable to remember all the moves and improvising considerably for the crux run-out was still wet, he sent the route in truly inspirational style. His is the fastest repeat to date.

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