CAI don't cry, new rock climb up Sass de Mura, Dolomites

Sass de Mura is the highest peak in the Cimonega massif in the Belluno Dolomites. It is located between the Italian regions of Trentino and Veneto in the Belluno Dolomites National Park and from the 1960’s to the 1990’s its walls were the testing grounds for local alpinists who forged a series of traditional and aid climbs. Most routes were put up on the north and south faces, and on a buttress called Parete Piatta where climbs of utmost difficulties for those years were established.

The part of the face taken by CAI don’t cry had already been observed by some local climbers, but it was soon forgotten about, possibly because of the far from ideal rock quality, or possibly because of the technical difficulties and a line that was simply not logical enough.

It was Plinio (Paolo Dal Mas), a talented alpinist who knows Sas de Mura like the back of his hand, who first took Andrea climbing in the mountains and who subsequently told him about this virgin line.

After a day’s climbing on Piz Ciavazes Andrea asked me whether I wanted to join him on this adventure, for both of us it was like stepping into the unknown for the very first time… I accepted enthusiastically!

The next weekend we spent the night at the Boz hut, poised to start the line. The route was established during 2 separate moments, swinging leads, and freed on a Sunday accompanied by Daniel Sampieri who supported us and encouraged us all the way.

We would like to thank Pliny for having shown us the line, Daniele Castellaz and all the Rifugio Boz staff for their hospitality and great food, Mario Thomas (Matu)for the lift he gave us to Malga Neva, the wardens Ruggero and his wife for the coffee at 5.00am, Davide Mitrio (Gerry) from the shop Linea Verticale for having lent us his gear, and above all our friends who supported us.

by Andrea Salvadori and Davide Gaeta

TOPO: CAI don't cry, Sass de Mura, Belluno Dolomites