Gran Sasso Ultimatum alla Terra, probable first repeat

On Sunday, July 19, 2015 Cristiano Iurisci, Stefano Supplizi and Luca Gasparini carried out the probable first repeat of the difficult rock climb route 'Ultimatum alla Terra' on the North West Face Vetta Orientale, in the Gran Sasso massif. A 360m grade VI climb first ascended by Piero Ledda and Roberto Iannill in 1999. Iannill looks back on that ascent.
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On pitch 4 of Ultimatum alla terra - Gran Sasso, below the yellow rock.
Stefano Supplizi

It was shortly after two on 17 July 1999 when Piero Ledda and I finished off the last pitch of Ultimatum alla Terra. We were really happy to have established a route such as this one, in a clean style, reminiscent of times gone past, fast, just like to ground-face-summit missiles. As per usual we shook hands and I said the following: “Anyways, no one will ever repeat a route like this one!"

Ultimatum alla Terra - an ultimatum of planet Earth - because we felt we like Martians. Normal terrestrials walked along paths, ascended via ferrata, climbed the super classics up Corno Piccolo - so to speak - while we were explorers on the moon, astronauts with a harness, pegs and Friends. Because the West Face ofVetta Orientale is a wall strange place, misunderstood, moody.

Ultimatum also because I’m an old fan of science fiction books and I’m certain that, sooner or later, someone will descend on us after having travelled through a rift in time and space to tell us: "Either you clean up this mess or we’ll kill you.”

After sixteen years someone has proved me wrong and has repeated our Ultimatum. This means that there still are some who appreciate alpinism, old style, without tricks and cheating, comprised of classic VI grade that makes you sweat and clench your buttocks - and that makes a 6a at the crag pale in comparison.

Thanks Cristiano Iurisci, Stefano Supplizi and Luca Gasparini for having given me the opportunity to admit I was wrong. Now it's up to them, young, strong and motivated, to spread the message of Utimatum alla Terra ... and let’s hope the other humans will understand.

Roberto Iannilli (old traveler of the lunar and martian rock faces on Gran Sasso)




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