Swiss Spéléologie climb in Morocco's Caiat massif

Even though the Moroccan climbing scene is known above all for its stunning Todra and Taghia gorges, we wanted to climb in other lesser-known areas. That is the reason why we decided to spend some time in the north of the country to climb and establish a new route. Our internet research did not however reveal much information about the Caiat massif and consequently we expected a lot of untouched rock and amazing lines. We were surprised therefore to discover that loads of routes have already been bolted and are just waiting to be repeated!

After some days exploring the area we found a new, logical line and were keen to start our route. But then the weather decided to change and instead of bright sunshine we were confronted with three days of thunderstorms and heavy rain. We were forced to stay in our small van and watch our project get soaked more and more.

Four days later it stopped raining and as we had had enough of waiting around and doing nothing, we chose to give it a go. We managed to install a fixed rope on what was to become our first pitch, a route previously bolted and called Staby Wielblad. The tufas and pockets were dripping with water and we felt like we were doing a mix of canyoning and caving, not really climbing at all.

Regardless, we had a lot of fun that day, even if we obviously hoped that the sun would soon shine to dry out the rock face… and we were not disappointed! During the next few days we managed to establish a further 4 pitches on perfect limestone that will prove challenging due to all the various styles of climbing they offer.

by Jasmin Biller and Armando Bodeo

We would like to thank our partner STILE ALPINO for the support.

More information on our blog www.liberte-verticale.com/

TOPO: Spéléologie, Caiat, Morocco