Alexander Huber climbs difficult Wetterbock multipitch

A long approach, first a wild traverses from Ahornkaser to Wilder Freithof followed by a 600 m scramble up Grade I and II terrain, past the compact limestone slabs, leads to the base of the route. Göll's East Face isn't too steep and that what makes it a classic ski descent in the Berchtesgadener Alps. In short, a good three hours are needed to reach the start of the climb.

Over three days in September 2013 I managed to make the first ascent, alone, and I would have continued and completed my efforts with the redpoint ascent. But the crux pitch was anything but easy, and the early snow in mid-September dashed my hopes. I got back on the route only last summer, and given our August this was no mean task. The incessant rain didn't make things easier, but luckily the pitches up to the large roof remained dry. I had to remain on the ball if I wanted to send it and in the end this payed off: On 18 September, after much rain and waiting around, Michi Althammer and I pulled off the redpoint ascent. As it happened, Franz Hinterbrandner was there to document the entire ascent! On days like those things simply couldn't be better. It was steep, it was beautiful... and sadly it's all over!

From a purely technical perspective the Wetterbockwand isn't as difficult as the 8c+ crux pitch on Nirwana but overall, with its 3-hour approach through the Göll East Face, it's by no means less demanding. And certainly one of the more demanding in alpine environment.

by Alexander Huber

04/11/2008 - Alexander Huber interview