New climb on Dente di Mezzaluna, Valgerola
On 8 June 2014, Cristian Candiotto, Fabrizio Guerra and Valentina Manni mde the first ascent of "Ich liebe dich", (V/VI, 210m) on Dente di Mezzaluna, Valgerola. Orobie Alps. Carlo Mazzoleni provides the information.
The story behind this route is particular, Cristian is in charge of the Morbegno Mountain Rescue team, Fabrizio is vice presidet and a good friend, while Valentina is learning to become a member of the team and getting to grips with rope manoeuvres. We're friends and they chose the area also because it's close to the hut where I work as a cook and one weekend they decided to climb something new nearby.
The conglomerate outcrops offer numerous splendid lines and the spur they chose is particlarly beautiful. The climbers left a few pegs in-situ as well as a nut, those who wish to repeat the route will have to take a trad rack and some pegs to equip the belays.
The spur hosts two other routes established during the '50's but rarely repeated nowadays (Paltrineri - Del Nero, included in the guidebook CAI Bergamo Orobie: 88 immagini per arrampicare). Furthermore, close to Lake Piazzotti there are 30 bolted climbs graded IV - 6b (10 minutes from the hut), the classic Via Francesca up the Piazzotti bastion (250m, V+, 20 minutes from the hut) and of course the Denti della Vecchia peak with 12 bolted climbs graded 5a - 6b (45 minutes from the hut).All of these climb excellent quality conglomerate rock.
by Carlo Mazzoleni
TOPO: Ich liebe dich, Dente di Mezzaluna