Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowAlexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura

Alexander Megos climbing Modified 9a+, Frankenjura
Photo by Alexander Megos archive
INFO / links & info:

Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura

17.06.2014 by Planetmountain

German climber Alexander Megos has added two new routes to the Frankenjura, Modified 9a+ and Nice Freshly Baked 9a.

A climbing performance is no longer measured in days, but hours. It's astounding, but at the moment everything German sports climber Alexander Megos lays his hands on seems so easy that it's forcing us to think in bouldering terms, i.e. the number of (few) attempts and the number of hours on a given day.

One could argue that this is perhaps nothing other than the natural evolution after having proven to be capable of climbing 9a onsight, but nevertheless Action Directe in less than two hours certainly left its mark, as did (if confirmation were really necessary) The Man that follows hell 9a+ in an hour and a half. On that occasion in mid-May we wrote that perhaps the time had come for Megos to invest his hours not in redpointing an existing route, but in a great new project. And even if a great new project hasn't been identified yet, in the days that followed those climbs Megos acted on his own accord and made two interesting new first ascents in the Frankenjura.

The latest creation is called Modified and is a combination of the routes Kate Moss and his Classified. No new terrain therefore, but nevertheless a great 9a+ that settles in as one of his hardest climbs to date. This joins a route Megos freed at the end of May, Nice Freshly Baked. For this route the 20-year-old got out a drill and, after having placed a line of bolts, freed the route at 9a. The times you may ask? Modified required 3 hours, Nice Freshly Baked a mere 3 attempts. By now it's clear that there's someone out there playing in a completely different league. The first 9b in the Frankenjura isn't perhaps that far off!

Share this page

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon