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On the ridge between San Giacomo and Pizzo Tresero, Cevedale and Palon de la Mare in the background.
Photo by Francesco Piardi
After having left the Forni glacier the route ascends towards Tresero, with Gran Zebrù in the background
Photo by Francesco Piardi

Cevedale: ski mountaineering in Italy

29.04.2005 by Planetmountain

One of the most important Italian mountain chains for spring ski mountaineering: Cima Madriccio, Cima Marmotta, Palon de la Mare, Pizzo Tresero, Punta San Matteo.

The Cevedale mountain chain, located between Italy's Lombardy and the Trentino Alto Adige regions, is one of the most important areas in Northern Italy for spring ski mountaineering. Almost all of the numerous peaks can be reached relatively easily without having to unstrap skis for the final ascent, and they all offer beautiful descents on varied terrain, often on glaciers with relatively few crevaces. Excellent mountain huts are strategically located throughout the entire Cevedale group allowing for multi-day traverses from one mountain to another, or enabling a series of different one-day ascents from just one single base.

This article explores two of the most important areas in the Cevedale group: from Lombardy we explored the Forni glacial basin and ascended classic itineraries such as Pizzo Tresero and Monte S. Matteo from the Forni Refuge. After this excellent cuisine we moved across onto the South Tyrolean face and the Val Martello, from where we summited the easy Cima Marmotta and Madriccio, and the more demanding Cima Venezia.

Due to the significant elevation gain and total height difference all itineraries require a high degree of stamina and overall fitness. Furthermore, advanced route finding skills on glacial terrain are essential to correctly evaluate the prevailing snow conditions. The Cevedale mountain chain offers beautiful and highly rewarding itineraries at altitude - happy and safe ski mountaineering!

Name
Difficulty
Beauty
Cima Madriccio
Medium
Easy itinerary in a beautiful setting with fantastic view from the summit onto Gran Zebrù and Ortles.
Cima Marmotta
Medium
A classic, long itinerary. Although the ascent is not particularly demanding, the vertical height gain is considerable.
Palon de la Mare
Difficult
A beautiful ascent via a varied itinerary in a grandiose setting. The summit offers a magnificent view onto the entire group and the 13 surrounding summits.
Pizzo Tresero
Difficult
A great, long and highly satisfying ascent. One of the classic outings in the Cevedale group.
Punta San Matteo
Difficult
One of the most popular, classic outings in this glacial environment. A long itinerary with significant height gain.


Maps
Ortles - Cevedale Tabacco, sheet 08, 1:25.000

Bibliography
"Dallo Stelvio a San Candido " by Franco Gionco e Alberto Malusardi, Ed. Centro Doc. Alpina
"Dal Sempione allo Stelvio" by Maurizio Gnudi e Franco Malnati, Ed. Centro Doc. Alpina

Information
Rifugio Forni - Tel. e fax 0342/93.53.65
Rifugio Martello - Tel. 0473/744790
Rifugio Branca - Tel. 0342/935501 - 0342/935350
Rifugio Corsi - Tel. 0473/744785

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