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Eisarena Umbaltal: Peter Ortner climbing Black Pearl, M8-
Photo by Vittorio Messini
Eisarena Umbaltal: Vittorio Messini climbing Rockmaster, M8+
Photo by Vittorio Messini
Eisarena Umbaltal: the three sectors Flying Dutchman, Umbaltaler e Rockmaster
Photo by Vittorio Messini

Eisarena Umbaltal, new ice climbing in Austria

12.02.2014 by Planetmountain

A series of new ice climbs and mixed routes have been established at a new ice climbing area called Eisarena Umbaltal, in East Tirol, Austria.

After the first ascent of the mixed climb Umbaltaler at the hands of Peter Ortner and Andreas Bstieler last year, a wave of new routing activity has gripped the Virgental valley this winter season thanks to a strong group of local alpinists and mountain guides. 11 new routes have been climbed and the area, now called Eisarena Umbaltal, looks promising. First ascentionist Vittorio Messini told Planetmountain "Thanks to the large number of ice and mixed routes of all grades, all located close to one another, the Eisarena Umbaltal will soon develop into one of the top mixed and ice climbing areas in the Tirol."


EISARENA UMBALTAL
Sector Flying Dutchman

1. Flying Dutchman, M9
First ascent: Peter Ortner and Vittorio Messini on 23.1.14. First RP on 27.1.14.
Grade: P1: WI 3 20m, P2: M9 35m.
Protection: with bolts.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, two 60m ropes, Friends #2
Description: beautiful mixed route, steep endurance climbing!

2. Black Pearl, M8-
First ascent: Peter Ortner and Vittorio Messini on 27.1.14. First RP on 28.1.14.
Grade: P1: WI 3 20m, P2: M8- 35m.
Protection: with bolts.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, two 60m ropes
Description: beautiful, long drip followed by a short and intense roof.

3. Dabermannl, WI 5-
First ascent: Andreas Bstieler and Hannes Marinelli il 15.12.13.
Grade: P1: WI 3 30m, P2: WI 5- e, P3: WI 3 50m.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, two 60m ropes.
Description: the first route here, the classic climb!

4. Daberweibl, WI 4+
First ascent: Matthias Wurzer and Ben Kloss on 23.1.14.
Grade: P1: WI 4- 30m, P2: WI 3 60m, P3: WI 4+ 30m.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, two 60m ropes

Sector Umbaltaler
5. Umbaltaler, WI7
First ascent: Peter Ortner and Andreas Bstieler on 20.1.13.
Grade: P1: WI 2-3 80 m, P2: WI 6+ 35m, P3: WI 7 35m.
Protection: clean!
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, two 60m ropes, pegs, Friends, Nuts, Birdpeaks
Description: beautiful ice fall, psychologically very demanding ineed. Does not come into condition every year.

6. Ogasil Schlüef, WI 4
First ascent: Matthias Wurzer and Ben Kloss on 23.1.14.
Grade: P1: WI 3 50m, P2: WI 4 30m, P3: WI 4 40m.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, two 60m ropes
Description: Pleasant, easy outing with original section on pitch 2.

7. Miss Hell, WI 5+,M5-6
First ascent: Peter Ortner and Vittorio Messini on 23.1.14.
Grade: P1: WI 3 40 m, P2: WI5+ 15m, P3: WI5+, M5-6 45m.
Protection: last belay bot protected, the others clean
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, small Friends, nuts, two 60m ropes
Description:interesting and beautiful ice and mixed climb with Chamonix-style finish ;-)

Sector Rockmaster
8. Rockmaster, M8+
First ascent: Peter Ortner and Vittorio Messini on 28.1.14. First RP on 29.1.14.
Grade: P1: M5 30 m, P2: M8+ 35m.
Protection: P1: clean + 1BH, P2: with bolts.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, two 60m ropes, 1 set Friends 0,3-3
Description: the second fantastic pitch up superb rock and steep ice makes the first, not really ideal pitch well worth the effort. Early morning light guarantees excellent photos!

9. Icemaster, M8- WI 6-
First ascent: Peter Ortner and Vittorio Messini on 29.1.14. First RP on 7.2.14
Grade: P1: WI3 20m, P2: M8- WI6- 30m, P3: M6 WI5- 15m.
Protection: with bolts.
Gear: normal ice climbing rack, quickdraws, two 60m ropes
Description: Beautiful, varied mixed climbing up superb rock!

10. Project
Andreas Bstieler and Isidor Poppeller

11. Project
Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini


TOPO: Eisarena Umbaltal, Austria

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