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Bernd Zangerl climbing his Shantaram close to Trondheim in Norvegia.
Photo by Radek Capek
Bernd Zangerl climbing his Shantaram close to Trondheim in Norvegia.
Photo by Radek Capek
Bernd Zangerl climbing his Shantaram close to Trondheim in Norvegia.
Photo by Radek Capek
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Bernd Zangerl climbs Shantaram in Norway

15.01.2014 by Planetmountain

In June 2013 Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl made the first ascent of Shantaram, a difficult new boulder problem close to Trondheim in Norway.

"Gut Ding braucht Weile". The German expression "good things take time" certainly applies in the case of Bernd Zangerl who is only now beginning to filter through information about what he defines as "the most intensive moment in my climbing life and perhaps even the highlight", namely the first ascent of the boulder problem Shantaram close to Trondheim in Norway.

Zangerl first tried the 23-move line three years ago but had to return home to Austria content with having climbed all the individual moves. A trip in 2012 proved unsuccessful but motivation remained high. "It's right the opposite of what I love most, short and sharp like the 4-move Anam Cara in the Silvretta massif." Zangerl explained to Planetmountain, adding "But the line on this enormous boulder is simply unique and one of the most beautiful I've seen in the last 15 years! I simply couldn't ignore it. And had to adapt to this sort of physical stress. The crux is at the start, then it continues with hard 8A+ moves, body tension is always high..."

After a five-week trip in summer 2013 Zangerl finally unlocked the key. The problem is as yet ungraded but seeing his previous track record, it's likely to be as difficult as it is beautiful.

Dreamtime, 2nd ascent, 2001
New Base Line,1st ascent, 2002
Viva La Evolution,1st ascent, 2002
Memento, 1st ascent, 2005
Cour de Leon, 2nd ascent, 2005
Anam Cara, 1st ascent, 2007
Unknown Ungraded, 1st ascent, 2008
Entlinge, 2nd ascent, 2009
From the dirt grows the flower, 2nd ascent, 2009
Self Aperto, 1st ascent, 2011, (Valle dell Orco)
Bravirabi,1st ascent 2011 (Valle dell Orco)
El Salvador, 1st ascent, 2011 (Valle dell Orco)
Der Normopath, 1st ascent, 2012
Extra long - Extra strong, 1st ascent, 2012
Godless heavy blanket, 1st ascent, 2012
Shantaram, 1st ascent, 2013
Royal Challenge,1st ascent, 2013

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