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Making the first ascent of Cuorediluna, Capo Pecora.
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia
Aerial photo of Jurassic Park with the line of the new trad route.
Photo by Paolo Contini
The route line of Prcek, Punta Cusidore.
Photo by Corrado Pibiri

Climbing in Sardinia: October update by Maurizio Oviglia

13.11.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

The October climbing in Sardinia report provided by Maurizio Oviglia: Capo Pecora, Jurassic Park and a series of new modern multi-pitch rock climbs.

This has been a particularly hot autumn in Sardinia, so much so that until 10 November it was often hotter than 23°C and people could still go swimming in the sea. The "multi-pitch season" was considerably longer than usual therefore and many took advantage of the beautiful short holiday, around All Saints' to climb at Gorroppu, Punta Cusidore and Mount Oddeu in nothing more than shorts and T-shirt. As I noted recently, multi-pitch routes are steadily growing in popularity and while early routes all required a certain level of commitment, more often than not new routes are being established in the 6b range, with even easier obligatory climbing. Much to the joy of those who wish to repeat the routes, visitors and locals alike. There are of couse those who continue forging new trad lines, in areas where I hope the respect for this "adventure" will continue. So here are some of the latest updates, unpublished up to now in print and on the web.

Modern multi-pitch routes
On the highly popular VII pillar of Doloverre at Surtana Antonio Basolu and Piero Fancello have made the first ascent of "Semper Onestu", 6a+, 5 well-bolted pitches and, needless to say, up beautiful rock. Not far away, on Mount Oddeu, Michael Schaefer and friends have added a new line between the classic Compagni di Viaggio and Por el Pueblo Oprimido. 6 new pitches then join Compagni di viaggio, 6c according to the first ascentionists, 6b according to those who have already repeated the route. The route offers 6a obligatory climbing, with ample and excellent (12mm) bolts, while the rock is splendid to say the least. The route is called "Bang Boom Bang" and has all the hallmarks to become another instant classic. On nearby Punta Cusidore Corrado Pibiri, Tom Krull and Fabio Erriu put up "Prcek": 8 pitches up to 6c weave their way up the extreme left-hand side of this superb bastion. Excellent limestone, as always, and some trad gear is needed to back up the in-situ bolts

Trad climbing
Some news from Capo Pecora, the sanctuary of the new trad climbing movement on Sardinia, and from Jurassic Park located on the opposite side of the island. At Capo Pecora Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia continued their exploration of Terra Promessa, a circa 60m face of beautiful granite which translates as the Promised Land. "Unplugged" and "Cuorediluna" were established on the same day, the former offers three pitches up to 6a, the latter boasts beautiful crack climbing up to 6b+. Marco Marrosu, Isabella Zuddas, Francesca Marongiu, Daniele Ara and Giacomo Satta added a new route to Big Ben with difficulties in the region of 6a.

Jurassic Park on the other hand is now home to Hirundos-auro, a beautiful new route with 5 short pitches put up by the usual suspects, Oviglia and Erriu: 90m, 6c+, all trad except for the bolt belays. The route climbs excellent quality orange granite, marked by a series of small cracks, and breaches a roof which houses numerous sea birds...

Returning to Surtana, this time on the XII pillar, C. Malomo, L. Cervini and B. Vitale have established the 100m high "Serra Orrios" to the left of "Cortes Apertas". With difficulties up to VI+, the route has in-situ gear only in the hardest sections and is dedicated to Gianfranco Spanu from Dorgagli.

Thanks to: Michael Schaefer, Corrado Pibiri, Antonio Basolu, Marco Marrosu and Bruno Vitale

by Maurizio Oviglia

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