Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowValle dell'Orco new rock climbs

Valle dell'Orco: Obscured by Clouds (7a (6b oblig) 170m, Massimiliano Celano, Tiziano Marchetti, 09/2013)
Photo by Massimiliano Celano
Valle dell'Orco: Quintoppiù (7a+ (6a obblig), 100m Massimiliano Celano, Tiziano Marchetti, 09/2011)
Photo by Massimiliano Celano

Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs

24.09.2013 by Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio Oviglia and Massimiliano Celano introduce the new cliff Altrolato and its routes on the dark side of the Orco valley.

The search for new terrain in Italy's trad valley par excellence of Italian trad is currently evolving along two different themes. On the one hand there are those who discover single pitches or short climbs, following the example set by Britain's Randall and Whittaker, and on the other there are those who remain faithful to the valley traditions by putting up medium-length multi pitches hidden in the folds of the valley, discovering and establishing them with a limited number of bolts, maybe placed on slabs only.

Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti are among those who fall into the second "cult" category; these Piedmont climbers have spent years exploring even the most hidden corners of this valley. Many of the routes in the lower part of the valley have been put up by them and of these many have never been published before (or only on the website Gulliver.it). Furthermore, they have been instrumental in the development of beautiful and highly popular crags dotted around Ceresole Reale such as Pietra Filosofale and Droide.

This article aims to introduce the latest efforts of "Maz & Tiz" as they like to call themselves. The routes breach a face they called Altrolato, the Other Side and in future articles we'll analyse the short single pitches, as well as finding out more about this infamous duo above.

Maurizio Oviglia

ALTROLATO by Massimiliano Celano
Grandiose rock face, clearly visible from the tunnel entrance at Ceresole Reale, up on the left. It has similar as features Ancesieu (Vallone di Forzo), ranges in height from circa 100 - 250 metres and is a remarkable 1 km wide.

Name
Grade
Length
Quintoppiù
7a+ (6a oblig)
100m
Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.
Duel
7a+
50m
Established with the use of aid Adriano Trombetta and Aziz with difficulties up to A2, Duel was subsequently freed on 5 october 2011 by the first ascentionists. As the name suggests, beautiful twin cracks offer physical, continuous and elegant climbing.
Strategie per l'inutile
6b+ (5c oblig)
150m
Great 5-pitch line established by Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti in September 2012.
Obscured by Clouds
7a (6b oblig)
170m
Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock.

Approach: before the tunnel turn off left and stop before the bridge that leads to Borgata Pian. Cross the bridge and then take the track to the right, the paved one that leads up to the face. reach the first cairn quickly and follow these up steep ground to reach the base of the face. "Quintoppiù and "Duel" are reached in 30 minutes. If there is no water in the river this can be crossed everywhere, alternatively used the insitu rope fixed beneath a large boulder. 300-400m height gain, altitude 1300m.

Share this page

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon
  • Diretta Consiglio
    Salita tanti anni fa, nel 1969, ovviamente senza friend (che ...
    2014-08-18 / renzo%20 Bragantini