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Alexander Megos on Retired Extremely Dangerous (9a, 35) at Diamond Fall, Blue Mountains, Australia.
Photo by Simon Carter
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Alexander Megos climbs Australia's first 9a

19.08.2013 by Planetmountain

On 18/08/2013 Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Retired Extremely Dangerous (9a, 35) at Diamond Fall, Blue Mountains, Australia.

Australia has its first 9a - or better still grade 35 - sports climb thanks to Alexander Megos who succeeded in freeing Retired Extremely Dangerous at Diamond Fall in the Blue Mountains.

The 20-year-old German needed circa 20 attempts spread out over 3 days to get to grips with the independent line which had been bolted in 1999 by Garth Miller and then come to be known as The Red Project. The Mr Wall sector is home to some of Australia’s hardest routes and the sector now boasts the continent's first grade 35 - i.e. 9a - sports climb.

Australian photographer Simon Carter who witnessed Megos' progress stated "... I think it is great to see some progression in the top end of Australian climbing. The last time a new grade in Australia was achieved was when Chris Webb Parsons climbed White Ladder (34) at Nowra in 2004. Despite what that time period might suggest, and considering how much the rest of the world has moved on in that time, I still think it’s probably that the top Australian standards has moved on significantly in that time. It’s likely that we do have some harder 34′s (8c+’s) already and I would not be at all surprised if Retired Extremely Dangerous now received a fast repeat from a local. In any case, I think it’s good for someone with Alex’s experience to come and set a benchmark like this."

Megos has been climbing "fast and light" in Australia for the last few weeks and for details of his ascents check out Simon Carter's full update on www.onsight.com.au

TOPO: Blue Mountains - Diamond Falls

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