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Tom Randall onsighting Turkey Crack 8a at Cadarese, Val d'Ossola, Italy
Photo by Saro Costa
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Tom Randall climbs hard at Cadarese in Italy

13.04.2013 by Planetmountain

British climber Tom Randall has onsighted the 8a crack climb Turkey Crack at the Italian crag Cadarese. Today he repeated the famous route The Doors.

Britain's Tom Randall is currently on holiday in Italy along with Canada's Jean-Pierre Ouellet and the two crack specialists headed straight to Cadarese, the crag famous for its countless perfect gneiss crack climbs located high up in Valle Antigorio (Val d'Ossola).

The weather was poor on day 1 but much to Randall's delight he discovered that "that this crag is still totally climbable in wet weather. What a dream crag for a Brit!" The next day Randall then realised his dream by on-sighting the large roof Turkey Crack, an incredible offwidth crack freed by Sean O’Driscoll Villanueva at 8a. Not content, today Randall made a 2nd go repeat of another famous testpiece, The Doors, describing it as "a nice endurance 8a+." Not a bad really!

Many crack climbs at Cadarese are protected by bolts and Randall commented "I’m not really going to pass judgement on how they’ve done things here, but it was certainly a weird experience doing a 30m hand crack with only 10 quickdraws on my harness." His views after having climbed a 7b+ on day 2 are certainly worth noting: "This pitch itself could rival some of the very best crack climbing in Yosemite and I started to realise why recent visitors to Cadarese include Tommy Caldwell, Yuji Hirayama, Nico Favresse and the other mental belgians to name a few.


Cadarese (Valle Antigorio) – 50 cracks from 4a onwards, located at an altitude of circa 900m, considered by some to offer the densest concentration of cracks in Central Europe. A mix of sport and trad climbs with equipped belays, a new sector has been developed recently dedicated exclusively to trad. www.ossolaclimbing.org/node/99

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