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Photo by Codazzi & Natali

Photo by Codazzi & Natali
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Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali

11.09.2012 by Stefano Codazzi

On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the South Face of Presolana Centrale.

A long time ago Daniele had suggested we go and repeat Yook Yook, the stupendous route Ugo Pegurri established with great intuition and courage back in 1987 (170m, max 6c, 6b+ obl). The idea was to repeat this route and also rebolt it as the belays and bolts were in a pretty bad state. As we approached the route Daniele told be about a possible new line to the left and to the right of Yook, and that he'd be keen on trying to ascend a new route ground-up.

Two days after having rebolted Yook we returned to the base of the south face loaded with enthusiasm. I climbed up the starting pillar and then Daniel continued, at ease with the vertical pocket climbing above. Pushing himself to his very limit and thanks to his skillful (and frequent) use of "Aliens" he managed to reduce the bolts to a bare minimum. He tirelessly established three amazing pitches and in doing so he discovered an unexpected sequence of pockets which seriously put him to the test. On 30 August we repeated Alien and Daniele succeeded in the route's first redpoint.

Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.
by Stefano Codazzi


TOPO: Via Alien, Presolana Centrale

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