Angelika Rainer climbs hard at Pian Schiavaneis, Dolomites
On 17/03/2012 at Pian Schiavaneis (Dolomites) Angelika Rainer redpointed her first 8b+, Non mollare.
Last Saturday Angelika Rainer didn't give up on the route "Non mollare" (Don't give up ), an 8b+ located at the crag Pian Schiavaneis in the Dolomites. In doing so she not only sent her first 8b+, she also confirmed her great form which resulted in her first ascent of "Il volo dellangelo" D13- her redpoint of "M come mostro" D13- and her victory in the 2012 Ice climbing World Cup.
"I'd tried this beautiful route on and off for three years" said Rainer "interrupted due to specific competition training and two elbow tendonitis last year. That's why it became difficult from a psychological point of view and I had to start anew each time to learn the crux section, two big dyoes, the first of which is followed by a series of moves up tiny crimps."
Rainer continued "I sent the route first go on Saturday, after having tried it only once this winter and hardly ever climbed bare-handed! But I was really motivated and I realised that the conditions - which for this route are all-important - were perfect."
The climber from Meran improved on her specific competition training by sending hard boulder problems and aerobic training to peak at just the right moment for this route which she sent, only just, but with the backing of all her friends below her.