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Caroline Ciavaldini at the 2011 Arco World Championship
Photo by Giulio Malfer
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Caroline Ciavaldini climbs Mind Control at Oliana

07.03.2012 by Planetmountain

French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has redpointed Mind Control 8c+ at Oliana, Spain. The report by James Pearson.

Mind Control is in the news once again and, after having been repeated recently by Daila Ojeda and subsequently Nina Caprez, one of Oliana's most coveted routes now falls to Caroline Ciavaldini. A few days ago the French climber "warmed-up" so to speak by sending nearby Fish Eye 8c and has now produced a mind-boggling performance to send this 8c+ on her third try. Her boyfriend James Pearson provides the details below, in between one redpoint and the next: after making quick work of Mind Control as well, he now has his sights set on Esclatamasters, Ramón Julián Puigblanque's 9a at nearby Perles.


Mind Control by James Pearson

Yesterday, just one day before her birthday, Caroline managed to fight her way to the top of Mind Control at the Spanish super cliff of Oliana. ...She clipped the belay on her second try of the day, 3rd red-point in total, with another inspirational display of grit and determination – there was no way she was letting go of the final tricky tufa. With the route ticked, there is nothing else to to today but lie happily in the sun, watch the beautiful view, and enjoy the company of good friends – what more could you wish for on your birthday.


LEIDA, SPORT CLIMBING IN SPAIN

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