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Marco Milanese climbing Zanna Bianca, Forra del Vinadia
Photo by Andrea Fusari
Andrea Fusari, Alice in Wonderland, Forra del Vinadia
Photo by Marco Milanese
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Forra del Vinadia, ice climbing in the Friuli, Italy

16.02.2012 by Planetmountain

Five icefalls in the canyon Forra del Vinadia, Zia Mia, Alice in Wonderland, Cinderella, Zanna Bianca e Trip terapia introduced by Massimo Candolini and Marco Milanese

In the small and picturesque gorge formed by the river Vinadia close to the hamlet Lauco in Italy's Carnian Alps a little ice laboratory has been developed over the last few ice seasons. This was initiated in 2010 when the local climbers Federico Addari e Jasna Dionisio established Zia Mia, and four more climbs have been added during the recent cold spell thanks to Massimo Candolini, Gianni and Albino Dorigo, Alex Franco, Andrea Fusari and Marco Milanese.

Icefall Grade Length Beauty
Alice in Wonderland WI4 50m
Short but highly satisfying icefall in an enchanting, magical environment with two pools of water inside the canyon.

Cinderella M8+/M9 25m
A bolted mixed pitch with a fair bit of ice. The traverse is demanding and delicate.

Trip terapia WI 7-XRM 20m
A large detached drip offers a brief mixed section. The drip above is difficult to protect. The route seems easier than it really is!

Zanna Bianca WI 7- M7+ 25m
An exceptional, beautiful route with a psychologically difficult start followed by a difficult crux on the icefall itself. After this the pro improves and the drip offers some good rests, but the climbing should not be underestimated. The exit is delicate.

Zia Mia WI 5+ 50m
4 March 2010: “A new icefall has been discovered in the Vinadia canyon. It seems incredible that no one ever noticed such ice formations so close to home, or at least, that no ice climber ever took a closer look!” This is how Jasna and Federico invented this mini sector in 2010, right in front of their doorstep and in 2012, with the intense cold, the dance started all over again. An ephemeral dance, destined to stop as soon as the temperatures rise.


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