Capri Deep Water Solo, new route Tramonti on the Faraglioni
In October 2011 Mike Rolf established 7a, a Deep Water Solo climb up the famous Faraglioni seastacks at Capri.
We've received some curious news from English climber Mike Rolf who established a great new Deep Water Solo climb in Italian waters last October. Rolf and friends travelled to the Amalfi coast for some sport climbing and made their way to the island of Capri, more precisely the famous landmark called Faraglioni, where they climbed a beautiful line up through the Lover's Arch. Tramonti - this is the name of the route - is circa 15m high with difficulties up to 7a and was established on-sight, obviously without a rope and shortly before the apex of the roof Rolf dived into the blue sea. Usually Rolf deep water solos in Dorset on the South coast of England and Pembroke on the West coast of Wales but seeing the area's potential, perhaps we should hold tight for another raid in the future!
Tramonti at Capri by Mike Rolf
"I travelled to the Amalfi coast with a few friends, Mike Williams and Adrian Jeyakumer to do some sport climbing. On our last day we decided to go searching for some DWS so we hired a boat from Positano, and set off for the day. The aim was to make it to Capri to look for routes on the arch and on the boat ride out there we passed quite a few leaning walls with some potential for DWS. By the time we made it to the arch we only had time for one route.
I chose the obvious line up the left hand side of the arch. The route starts on a big stuck-on jug and then weaves up blobs and tufas. I stopped just short of the apex of the cave. I dropped to the sea from there. Mike Williams had a go at the second ascent, but took a splash down when a hold broke. I named the route Tramonti, after a local wine. I'd say its around 7a.
We ran out of time but there are at least a handful of other routes to do there. I'd say the potential for further DWS in the entire area is pretty good, for the keen. Although most routes would need a boat we saw quite a few walls with potential."
Sport climbing on the Amalfi coast
- Brigante Mirabella 16 routes from 6a - 8a
- Cannabis 20 routes from 6b+ - 8a
- Il Paretone 13 routes from 6a - 7b/c
- U' Piscione 10 routes from 6b - 7c+