Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and present times, told by Lorenzo De Bonis.
FRESH AIR AT 'L COUP by Lorenzo De Bonis
This autumn Seve, after having on-sighted the route Crisi at the crag 'L Coup 'd Roure, noticed a beautiful line to his left. Equipped with '90's style purple CAMP hangers, there was no information about this extremely overhganing line in the local guidebooks and on the internet. Immediately taken in by his usual genius and cutting-edge desire, he was enraptured by the route which, as it happens, is steeper than most other routes in our area.
First of all he contacted Renato Simondi (Renè), the crag guru, and discovered that this was first route of the crag, established with the use of aid during the 1970's by Romeo Isaia and Guido Ghigo and then rebolted by Renè circa 15 years ago. It was a project therefore, started way back and then later abandoned to the present day, or rather, until this autumn.
With Renato's "blessing" Seve was granted permission to work the route, along with me. Loads of cleaning, plenty of cursing and some of the bolts were moved. We lowered the belay by a couple of meters due to an enormous, dangerous flake which over the course of the years had probably become dislodged and now hung dangerously above the route. Trundling it off would have been too dangerous as the path runs directly beneath the crag.
Renè tagged along to try the route with us and he enjoyed the outing. We enthusiastically called the route "Catene a bordo" (chains on board, we'll leave you to discover why) but in line with the first ascentionist the route is officially called 'L Coup 'd Roure, as written at the base next to the start of Sudoku. Also out of respect for respect those who were here well before us.
'L Coup 'd Roure is no longer a project, we both freed the line at 8a and we're pleased to announce that Rore, and our Cuneo region, now has a new route in the 8th grade. We decided to leave all the quickdraws in place to tempt other climbers to give it a go.
Lorenzo De Bonis, 22 December 2011
Name: 'L Coup 'd Roure
Moves: circa 20, excluding the start up Sudoku 6c+ (first chain 6a+)
Quickdraws: 5 with maillon rapide in loco (excluding the first section)
Gear: 10mm bolts with CAMP hangers, original gear unchanged
Length: 30mt (total) – 12mt (excluding the first section)
Prima libera: Lorenzo De Bonis/Seve Scassa 22 December 2011
Description: Physical roof climbing with long reaches.