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Adam Ondra on Gioia at Varazze
Photo by Roberto Armando
Gioia Fb 8c move for move by Christian Core...
Photo by Roberto Armando

Adam Ondra repeats Gioia 8C+ at Varazze

06.12.2011 by Planetmountain

Adam Ondra has made the first repeat of Gioia at Varazze in Italy, the 8C+ boulder problem freed by Christian Core in 2008.

Finally repeated and confirmed, the superb boulder problem at Varazze! Today's ascent is a certain joy for both Adam Ondra who sent the line today, and for Christian Core who established and freed the line in 2008. We're obviously talking about the boulder problem Gioia at Varazze in NE Italy. Alias those 14 moves which cut diagonally through the cave from left to right past a difficult sit-down start and which, until only a few hours ago, had bewitched some of the strongest climbers in the world.

Ondra had visited Varazze this February with this problem in mind and after his attempts he told us that he hadn't been disappointed in the slightest. "On the contrary" he commented, adding "usually it's the other way round." Ondra had described his February attempts as follows "I managed to send the stand start quite fast even though it is not fully my style and then I immediately started trying the sit-start. The beginning is less physical and extremely crimpy and this suits me much better, but nevertheless I struggled to do all the moves."

Today the time was ripe for the final act. Perfect weather conditions were instrumental for this first repeat and, contrary to what usually happens, Ondra has confirmed what people had murmured for quite a while: that the problem isn't a mere 8C, but a staggering 8C+. Gioia, if not the hardest in the world, is therefore certainly one of the most difficult of all. Congratulations therefore to the "usual" Adam but also (and this needs underlining) to Christian Core.


Christian Core climbing Gioia sit start 8c+ a Varazze

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