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10/02/2011. Daniele Bernasconi and Simone Pedeferri carrying out the first winter ascent of Spada nella Roccia, Qualido
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Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello

21.09.2011 by Planetmountain

The video of the first winter ascent of Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, in Val di Mello (Val Masino) carried out by Daniele Bernasconi and Simone Pedeferri in February 2011.

1989. On the East Face of Monte Qualido Ottavio Fazzini, Tarcisio Fazzini and Norberto Riva established Spada nella Roccia, the sword in the rock. The trio needed 3 days to invent their 500m line past the famous flake, with difficulties up to 6c and A3. La Spada nella Roccia is destined to become a classic, widely recognised as one of the most beautiful granite multi-pitches in the Central Alps.

1999. A decade after the first ascent, Simone Pedeferri and Marco Vago carry out the first free ascent. The two onsight the entire route bar pitches 13 and 14 which are freed immediately. La Spada nella Roccia now goes free at 7b.

2011. Making the most of a fabulous day in February day,Simone Pedeferri and Daniele Bernasconi carry out the first winter ascent. Both climbers had attempted the route in winter unsuccessfully previously, but on 10 February everything ran like clockwork. After a bivy at the foot of the wall the two climbed the initial pedestal with crampons and ice axes, then continued with rock shoes. They summited at 13.00, abseiled off and returned home in time for dinner. A fast, clean, beautiful ascent. And the sword can finally be put back in its sheath.




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