Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowPik Pobeda and Peak Prezhevalskogo, new routes in Kyrgystan for Urubko, Durov and Dedeshko

Peak Prezhevalskogo, 6240m
Photo by Denis Urubko
Pik Pobeda, 7439m. From left to right: Abalakov Route, North ridge, 6A, 1956, 2939m. Smirnov, 1982, Dollar's Route Denis Urubko Route (Dollar Rod), 2011, 6B. Verblud (Camel), Sokolov-Gorelik, Pobeda West (6918m, Vazha Pshavela) via butress of NW Wall, 2009, 6B, 65 °. D. Medzamariashvili, 5B, 1961, West ridge via Pobeda West (6918m, Vazha Pshavela), 8650m, 35º.
Photo by Denis Urubko
INFO / links & info:

Pik Pobeda and Peak Prezhevalskogo, new routes in Kyrgystan for Urubko, Durov and Dedeshko

24.08.2011 by Planetmountain

In Kyrgystan Denis Urubko has established a new route up Peak Prezhevalskogo (6240m) together with Boris Dedeshko as well as a new route up Pik Pobeda, 7439m along with Gennadiy Durov.

Anna Piunova from mountain.ru reports that Kazakstan alpinists Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov have carried out a much-awaited first ascent on Pik Pobeda, 7439m in the Kokshaal Too range, Kyrgystan.

The two climbers set off from South Inylchek Base Camp on August 10 but were immediately stopped by fresh snow the next day. Deeming a decent too dangerous the two rested on the so -called "Pedestal" and were surprised by perfect weather the following morning. Thy then required a further three days to breach the headwall - which often involved scary simul-climbing - and summited on August 15 at 19.10 local time. The descent was initially carried out in poor weather but this improved as they lost height. The new route is called Dollar Rod and graded Russian 6B (the hardest on the Russian scale). Urubko had dreamt of the line since 1993.

Prior to the new route on Pik Pobeda, Urubko had acclimatised by spending a very windy night on the summit of Khan-Tengri (6995m) in the Central Tjan Shan mountain range, and establishing a new line on nearby Peak Prezhevalskogo, (6240m) together with Boris Dedeshko which required three bivies and is graded A2, F6b, M5.

Share this page

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
    Per precisazione:"la sosta a spit" si incontra sul secondo t ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Evergreen
    Ho salito la via questa estate e naturalmente ci siamo conge ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello