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Palionisos bay on the Greek island of Kalymnos
Photo by Nikolaos Smalios
Sectors Great Canyon and Big Shadow
Photo by climbkalymnos
The Swiss brothers Claude and Yves Remy
Photo by climbkalymnos
From 18-22 May 2011 the island of Kalymnos will host its annual climbing festival featuring Patxi Usobiaga and Nicolas Favresse
Photo by Kalymnos
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Kalymnos new rock climbs

06.05.2011 by Planetmountain

The update for all the new routes established on Kalymnos in 2010 and the latest climbs created by Claude and Yves Remy.

New routing on Kalymnos shows no signs of slowing down whatsoever! During a brief 10 days at the end of March and the beginning of April Claude and Yves Remy continued their love affair with this Greek island and produced two new sectors and added a flurry of new climbs to existing sectors, detailed below.

All of these routes join the cauldron of new climbs established by local and visiting climbers after the launch of the new guidebook in October 2010 - including the fantastic looking Palionisos bay on the NE part of the island - necessitating a May 2011 update which can be downloaded here. Looks like an another excellent reason why to join the international Climbing Festival at the end of the month which this year will host climbers such as Patxi Usobiaga and Nicolas Favresse!


SECTOR GREAT CANYON
New sector between Arhi right and Sea breeze left side. Approach: park as to go to Pocket Wall – Sea Breeze and follow the gorge to the entrance of the canyon, go up right, blue marks, to the foot of the grey slab, 8 – 10 minutes. Here are the routes 1 to 9. These routes start by an easy slab, cross a big ledge then go to a vertical wall. Most of the wall is steep, white/red on the left, grey in the middle and white/red on the right. For routes 10 to 16, walk up on the right 1 min more, follow the ramp to the big ledge. Routes on the right are in overhang and in shadow most of the time. Often rock is sharp but most of the climbs are well protected.
Melomakaronas
6c
35m
Mystic Land
7a
35m
Plastic Surgery Disaster
7b
32m
Art in the Air
7a
34m
Vromikos
6c
33m
Boulderhoelle
6b+
33m
Xazouli
6b
32m
Xazouli Ext
6c
38m
Me Ponaï
6c
32m
From the big ledge
 
 
Rock Out
6c
20m
Loubis's Angels
6b
20m
Brave a New World
5c+
 
The next routes are short but very powerful
Divine Comedie
7a
 
Sex Pistols
7a
 
Tzatziki kai Sokolate
7b
 
Beta Lambda
7b+
 

SECTOR BIG SHADOW
This new sector is the “big wall” above the road between Kasteli – Arginonta, exposure north-east, there is a bit of sun in the morning. Approach: soon after the big turn of Kasteli/Dolphin Bay sectors, on the right of the road there is a small concrete building, park. Follow the 3 first electric poles and the red marks-cairns, then straight up the left side of the vague ridge, cross a small rock band, then follow small ledges of the left side to the base of Big Shadow, 40 minutes.Some routes start by a short scrambling section. All routes have been made from the bottom. We will come back to make more routes and extensions, so thanks to wait before making more routes.
Metralos
6a+
30m
Cacou
6a+
25m
Vicking
6a
25m
Directos
6b
30m
Grim
6b
30m
Grim Ext
6c+
50m
Cosi
7a+
30m
Taupe
7b
28m
Right, in the orange cave
Ratten
7a
20m

SECTOR GREY ZONE
Left of Pocket Wall
Fasolada
6a
 
In Dubio
6a
 
Falakro
5b+
 
Right of Strats for Heroes
Saphirniac
6c
38m
Right of Kill the Cock
Utopia
6a
20m
Utopia Ext
6c
36m

SECTOR ARGINONTA
30m left of Studio Fatolitis (subsector Holiday) there is a grey slab full up good holds, routes are very well protected.
Bolt-Obsession
4c
 
BB
5a
20m
Takis rare
4a
 
No Blabla Do It
4b
 
Mammut Step
4c
 
Right of Bouboulina (Infrared Wall)
Koubinos
6b
 
Right of Pornokini
Test Under Stress
6c
 
Right of No Sleep
Romance of Stone
6c
28m
Extension of Avri
Kolhinet Kafhouille
7a
 

SECTOR NORTH CAPE
Right of Hantsch
Reize
7a
25m
Right of Scanner
Leone
6a+
30m

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