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Slovenian climber Klemen Becan freeing the hardest route in Croatia, an unnamed 9a at Medveja.
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Klemen Becan creates Croatia's hardest climb

29.03.2011 by Planetmountain

Slovenian climber Klemen Becan has freed the hardest route in Croatia, an unnamed 9a at Medveja.

Klemen Bečan is no newcomer to hard climbing, with first ascents such as Privid 8c+ at Slovenia's classic Bohinjska Bela and a repeat of Matej Sova's Halupca 9a at Osp to name but two.

Now he has taken things a step further and has travelled into an different country - nearby Croatia - and upped the ante by freeing the country's hardest, its first 9a which he believes is one of the most beautiful and varied routes he has ever done.

Bolted by Italian climber Andrea Polo, The Core is located at Medveja, is 30m long and characterised by a very physical first half which leads to a good rest, after which a vertical section follows dubbed the death slab. Despite being slightly overhanging, the final section got this name because Bečan felt he could fall off every single move before reaching the chain. Talking of which: in truth, there is no final chain and once at the top you need to untie and walk back down the side of the crag.

For more photos check out www.marulianus.hr

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