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Christian Core
Photo by Giulio Malfer
François Legrand
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Ramon Julien Puigblanque
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Mauro Calibani
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Climbing World Champions 1991 - 2009

08.03.2011 by Planetmountain

A look at all the previous sport climbing World Champions as a first preview to the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011 will be held the small Italian town Arco 15 - 24 July 2011.

Ever wondered who won the first-ever official UIAA Sport Climbing World Championship? Most would hedge their bets on François Legrand and they wouldn't be disasppointed as for three events in a row - from 1991 to 1995 - the Frenchman proved simply unbeatable. But, tell the truth, would you have remembered that silent Swiss powerhouse Susi Good dominated the first two events? And did you realise that despite its popularity, the first bouldering World Championship took place a mere 10 years ago? Won by Italian Mauro Calibani in 2001 and by his teammate Christian Core two years later. And did you realise that Dani Andrada, best known for his 9a testpieces and his vital role in developing sport climbing in Spain, raced to success to won Speed World Championship in Paris in 1997?

In the run-up to the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011 scheduled for mid July in the Italian town Arco we thought it interesting to take a step back into competition climbing history and examine who has left their mark. A glance at the table below reveals who won gold, silver and bronze and what is striking is that - so far - no athlete has managed to bridge the gap and win at least two disciplines, despite valiant efforts by the likes of Sandine Levet, Akiyo Noguchi and Tomas Olesky to name but three.

Notable for their lack of World Championship victory are undisputable all-time greats sucha s Lynn Hill (she only competed in the first event in Frankfurt and placed 5th), Alexandre Chabot and more recently Kilian Fischhuber, the man who more than anyone else has dominated the Bouldering World Cup series. But as everyone knows, the World Championship is a one-off event, where a mistake costs dearer than in the World Cup series and can only be corrected two years down the line. This is why for most athletes Arco 2011 is the absolute top of their competition agenda, and their preparations have been in full swing for quite a while. Their dream is to add their names to the list of winners below.


LEAD BOULDER SPEED
2009 Qinghai (China)
1. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza ESP Johanna Ernst AUT Alexey Rubtsov RUS Yulia Abramchuk RUS Qixin Zhong CHN Cuilian He CHN
2. Adam Ondra CZE Jain Kim KOR Rustam Gelmanov RUS Olga Shalagina UKR Alexandr Nigmatulin KAZ Cuifang He CHN
3. David Lama AUT Maja Vidmar SLO David Barrans GBR Anna Stöhr AUT Ivan Novikov RUS Chunhua Li CHN
2007 Aviles (Spain)
1. Ramon Julian Puigblanque ESP Angela Eiter AUT Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS Anna Stöhr AUT Qixin Zhong CHN Tatiana Ruyga RUS
2. Patxi Usobiaga Lacunza ESP Muriel Sarkany BEL Martin Stranik CZE Akiyo Noguchi JPN Manuel Escobar VEN Edyta Ropek POL
3. Tomas Mrazek CZE Maja Vidmar SLO Cédric Lachat SUI Olga Bibik RUS Sergey Sinitsyn RUS Valentina Yurina RUS
2005 Munich (Germany)
1. Tomas Mrazek CZE Angela Eiter AUT Salavat Rakhmetov RUS Olga Shalagina UKR Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky RUS Olena Ryepko UKR
2. Patxi Usobiaga Lacunza ESP Emily Harrington USA Kilian Fischhuber AUT Yulia Abramchuk RUS Maksym Styenkovyy UKR Valentina Yurina RUS
3. Alexandre Chabot FRA Akiyo Noguchi JPN Gérome Pouvreau FRA Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova CZE Sergey Sinitsyn RUS Edyta Ropek POL
2003 Chamonix (France)
1. Tomas Mrazek CZE Muriel Sarkany BEL Christian Core ITA Sandrine Levet FRA Maksym Styenkovyy UKR Olena Ryepko UKR
2. Patxi Usobiaga Lacunza ESP Emilie Pouget FRA Jérôme Meyer FRA Nataliya Perlova UKR Tomasz Oleksy POL Tatiana Ruyga RUS
3. David Caude FRA Sandrine Levet FRA Tomasz Oleksy POL Fanny Rogeaux FRA Alexander Peshekhonov RUS Valentina Yurina RUS
2001 Winterthur (Switzerland)
1. Gérome Pouvreau FRA Martina Cufar SLO Mauro Calibani ITA Myriam Motteau FRA Maksym Styenkovyy UKR Olena Ryepko UKR
2. Tomas Mrazek CZE Muriel Sarkany BEL Frédéric Tuscan FRA Sandrine Levet FRA Vladimir Zakharov UKR Mayya Piratinskaya RUS
3. François Petit FRA Chloé Minoret FRA Christian Core ITA Nataliya Perlova UKR Tomasz Oleksy POL Svetlana Sutkina RUS
1999 Birmingham (Great Britain)
1. Bernardino Lagni ITA Liv Sansoz FRA Vladimir Zakharov UKR Olga Zakharova UKR
2. Yuji Hirayama JPN Muriel Sarkany BEL Vladimir Netsvetaev RUS Olena Ryepko UKR
3. Maksym Petrenko UKR Elena Ovtchinnikova USA Alexei Gadeev RUS Natalia Novikova RUS
1997 Paris (France)
1. François Petit FRA Liv Sansoz FRA Daniel Jimenez Andrada ESP Tatiana Ruyga RUS
2. Chris Sharma USA Muriel Sarkany BEL Yevgen Kryvosheytsev UKR Irina Zaytseva RUS
3. François Legrand FRA Marietta Uhden GER Dmitri Bytchkov RUS Olga Bibik RUS
1995 Genève (Switzerland)
1. François Legrand FRA Robyn Erbesfield USA Andrey Vedenmeer UKR Natalie Richer FRA
2. Arnaud Petit FRA Laurence Guyon FRA Milan Benian CZE Cecile Avezou FRA
3. Elie Chevieux SUI Liv Sansoz FRA Vladimir Netsvetaev RUS Renata Piszczek POL
1993 Innsbruck (Austria)
1. François Legrand FRA Susi Good SUI Vladimir Netsvetaev RUS Olga Bibik RUS
2. Stefan Glowacz GER Robyn Erbesfield USA Serik Kazbekov UKR Isabelle Dorsimond BEL
3. Yuji Hirayama JPN Isabelle Patissier FRA Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Renata Piszczek POL
1991 Frankfurt (Germany)
1. François Legrand FRA Susi Good SUI Hans Florine USA Isabelle Dorsimond BEL
2. Yuji Hirayama JPN Isabelle Patissier FRA Jacky Godoffe FRA Agnès Brard
3. Guido Köstermeyer GER Robyn Erbesfield USA Kairat Rakhmetov KAZ Venera Chereshneva RUS

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