Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowEisföhnig, new ice climb on the Renkfälle, Austria by Benedikt Purner

Benedikt Purner running it out over the lip on Eisföhnig M7+/WI7, Renkfälle, Austria
Photo by Alex Blümel

Eisföhnig, new ice climb on the Renkfälle, Austria by Benedikt Purner

17.02.2011 by Planetmountain

On 09/02/2011 Benedikt Purner and Alex Blümel carried out the first ascent of "Eisföhnig" M7+/WI7 on the Renkfälle in the Kaunertal, Austria.

Desipte conditions being anything but ideal for ice climbing in Austria's Tyrol, Benedikt Purner has just nabbed an ascent worth highlighting after his recent first ascent of Quasimodo in the Floitental: an extremely thin short new variation on the famous Renkfälle called "Eisföhnig" M7+/WI7.

Located high in the Kaunertal at circa 2000m, the Renkfälle tend to remain in condition long after the warm Föhn wind has rendered other drips unclimbable and on 09/02/2011 Purner teamed up with Alex Blümel to check out what was still on offer.

After climbing the Teufelskralle (M7+, WI6+ Florian Schranz & Egon Netzer), Purner and Blümel noticed that the classic "Eiskönig" dagger on the upper left-hand side had collapsed, revealing an overhanging crack covered in a thin layer of ice. They swiftly climbed up to the balcony and Purner then fought hard to on-sight the 10m crack. Climbing over the hollow lip proved both physically and mentally taxing and Purner had to summon all his reserves to avoid taking the fall on this WI/, after which gentle grade 6 ice led to the top.

Share this page




Full text search


Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
Recent Comments
  • Vento di passioni
    Il 18 Ottobre 2015 spinti dalla curiosità per una nuova via ...
    2015-12-12 / oscar meloni
  • The Edge
    The first 3 pitches are excellent, after that the climbing r ...
    2015-11-15 / Lepesant Ben
  • Rêve de Fer
    Bei ricordi del 1984 grande arrampicata ...
    2015-11-01 / Marco furlani
  • Luna Nascente
    Grande salita 1979 primavera dopo aver salito Kundalini con ...
    2015-11-01 / Marco furlani