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Rock climbing at Millstone, England
Photo by Alex Messenger
Pete Whittaker climbing up the other side of the inspirational Master's Edge at Millstone, England
Photo by Alex Messenger

Millstone, rock climbing in England

24.09.2010 by Planetmountain

Millstone Edge is one of the most popular gritstone crags in England. Overlooking Hathersage and just a stone's throw from Sheffield, this former quarry hosts some of the finest gritstone lines in the country.

Along with Stanage, Froggatt and Burbage, Millstone is regarded as one of the most popular gritstone crags in the Peak District. As a result of the intense quarrying the outcrop is characterised by smooth, fritionless vertical faces, fierce cracks, imposing corners and a series of bold arêtes which includes two of the most sought-after routes in the country: Edge Lane and Master's Edge.

The unprotectable left-hand arête in the aptly named Corners Area was first ascended by Alan McHardy in 1974 and although a bold outing, its relatively easy crux (at the top) ensures that Edge Lane has become one of the most desired E5's in the country.

Master's Edge immediately to the right needs little introduction and this 1983 work-of-art stands as a timeless testament to Ron Fawcett's brilliance and determination. Young Jerry Moffat, who had had his eyes set on the route, stated at the time that only a true master would one day be able to solo it on-sight, hence the name. Its boldness and technical difficulties have repelled all but the most gifted and no one, as yet, has risen to this audacious challenge.

Just before these routes lies the Embankment Wall Area which hosts one of the finest selection of climbs of all, including John Allen's awesome London Wall E5 6a. First ascended in 1975, this quintessential crack climb is extremely pumpy but, unlike many of the other routes here, completely protectable. Other three star outings include the The Mall, Bond Street, Great Portland Street, Regent Street, Coventry Street... the list is a long one and a trip here will certainly ensure a far greater adrenalin rush than anywhere in London!


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