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Chequers Buttress HVS 5a, Froggatt Edge, England
Photo by Adam Long
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Froggatt Edge, rock climbing in England

06.07.2010 by Planetmountain

Froggatt Edge is one of the most popular gritstone crags in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this sunny and windy outcrop hosts over 200 routes.

Overlooking the Derwent Valley, Froggatt Edge with its daring technical slabs and rounded buttresses is one of the favourite gritstone destinations in the entire Peak District. Much like at many of the other nearby outcrops, this crag was quarried throughout the 17th and 18th century resulting in plenty of well-protected crags and the steep technical faces which offer some of the finest slab outings in the country.

The classic Three Pebble Slab HVS 5a is a great introduction to this crag, while Joe Brown's somewhat stiffer The Great Slab E3 5b rates as one of the finest of its grade. Nearby Downhill Racer E4 6a is a different proposition altogether, and despite Jerry Moffat's feat of downclimbing it solo or Johnny Dawes' famous one handed solo ascent, the route remains a stern, serious lead.

Just round the corner stands one of the finest lines on grit: the blank arête of Beau Geste; first climbed in 1982 by Johnny Woodward using 3 ropes, this E7 6c has still seen only a handful of repeats. Sadly many climbers have used this route for toprope practice and the loss of some crucial pebbles was foreseeable. The route remains a formidable challenge though, as John Allen famously stated: "Beau Geste - it seemed to me that its ascent was a moment of inspiration fired by desire.... a classic natural sculpture and challenge.... made to be climbed, but only by the best."


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