Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowJoshua Tree climbing testpiece repeated by Chris Lindner

Chris Linder making the second ascent of The Dunce Cap 5.13a at Joshua Tree, USA.
Photo by Lindner archive
INFO / links & info:

Joshua Tree climbing testpiece repeated by Chris Lindner

15.04.2010 by Planetmountain

Video of Chris Linder making the second ascent of The Dunce Cap 5.13a at Joshua Tree.

Art imitates nature. Or put the other way, it would be hard to imagine anyone ever inventing a sequence quite as bizarre as the one on the route called The Dunce Cap at Joshua Tree.

First climbed in 1988 by prime USA mover Kurt Smith, this technical masterpiece lay unrepreated for almost 22 years until Chris Lindner paid a visit at the end of 2009 with the man himself to grab the second ascent. After the repeat Lindner stated: "that "rose" move in the photo is a completely different sequence than the way Kurt did it, he went up and right of the first bolt, whereas I went left of the bolt to that mantle, then the thumb catch, then the rose move....That move took me several hours over two days to figure out, I was pretty stoked when I finally figured it out. I didn't see any feasible holds in the direction Kurt said he went up... perhaps the micro crimps he did use have since broken off?"

All of this is documented in this nice short video which has recently been released on the internet and is well worth watching. Despite being "only" 5.13a (circa F8a), it's clear why the route lay dormant for so long!

Origins - Joshua Tree by SenderFilms

Share this page

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
Recent Comments
  • La beffa
    Portare Camalot dal 0.3 fino al #1, anche qualche stopper. L ...
    2014-07-18 / Luciano Calvelo
  • Spigolo Ovest - Wiessner - Kees
    Percorsa nel 1978, ma la ricordo perfettamente. Via all'alte ...
    2014-07-13 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spigolo Nord Ovest
    Ripetuta qualche anno fa. Salita magnifica in ambiente stupe ...
    2014-07-12 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spitagoras
    Bella via su roccia da buona ad ottima. Chiodatura da via al ...
    2014-07-07 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello