Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
Cornalba, thanks in part due to Adam Ondra's latest ascents, is becoming fashionable once again. And it's not hard to imagine the late Bruno "Camos" Tassi, one of the most ardent locals, smiling up high. Because the new life of this "magic mushroom" is also a tribute to his vision, style and dedication to this beautiful crag and pure climbing. It's for this reason that we're happy to dedicate Angelika Rainer's report to him; after removing her ice climbing champion vest Rainer recently redpointed the classic Outsider. This 8a+ was first ascended back in 1989 by Simone Moro, another important mover at Cornalba and also great friend and "disciple" of Camos. When the route was freed for the first time Rainer was taking her first steps in Kindergarten, and over the last twenty years Moro's horizon has shifted to the great Himalayan peaks. But it all started from here, from sport climbing and from Cornalba. From the visionary passion but also the alpinismo of Bruno Tassi, nicnamed Camos.
Outsider at Cormalba by Angelika Rainer
When Simone Moro freed this route in 1989 at the legendary Italian crag Cornalba, I had plenty of other things on my mind. For example playing in the garden or getting my diapers changed by mummy. At that time I wasn't even three years old.
The first time I set my eyes on Cornalba's white limestone was pretty tough. The first 6a+ I tried in 2002 was just a few meters away from Outsider, but thinking about it now it seemed kilometres apart. I reached Cornalba directly from the climbing gym and its artificial holds, which is where I had learnt to climb. My experience outdoors was limited and I remember that my hands and feet seemed to slip everywhere on that strange rock, I was close to tears out of fear and desperation. In the years that followed I started going to this crag more often. Situated in the mountains above Bergamo, this mushroom shaped white crag is extremely special. I learnt to appreciate it and over time (unless you're called Lama or Ondra) climb it and, in the end, love it.
Last winter Simone suggested I try this route which I believed to be too hard for me. I really respect these routes at Cornalba, perhaps due to their importance from a historical perspective and due to their age. But things didn't feel too bad on the route, I managed to do all the moves apart from the crux where, in the beating autumn sun, I continued to slip off.
I returned in February after the ice season and a rest period to enable my fingers to recuperate. I wanted to try the route which, in this period away from the crags, had remained etched in my mind. I immediately felt food on the first section of the route and, much to my surprise, I managed to stick the monodoigt which represents the crux of the route. I returned highly motivated two weeks later and conditions were perfect: sun, a slightly overcast sky and therefore not too hot, a slight breeze but not too cold to freeze my fingers.
Everything ran smoothly second go: the first half of the route, then the rest, then another couple of moves followed by another rest and then the section of crimps left, right, left undercling, crimp, monodoight, crimp right and then finally a good crimp and rest. Just the finishing meters and it was in the bag! I managed to send this route 7thg go which, considering my first experience at the crag, fills me with joy, especially since this route offers great climbing with a series of different moves which require both power and technique.
I'd like to dedicate this ascent to Camos, Barbara and Simone Moro, to the way they motivated, stimulated and inspired me over all these years.
I would like to thank my sponsors Salewa, Kiku, La Sportiva, Grivel and Sportler