Little Nipper, new winter route in Scotland for Ian Parnell and Ines Papert
On 19/02/2010 Ines Papert and Ian Parnell made the first ascent of Little Nipper (60m, VI,8) a short new route up the Far East Wall of Beinn Eighe, Scotland.
Papert had travelled north together with Audrey Gariepy and Mathieu Audibert from Canada to spend a week getting to grips with some of Scotland's finest routes, and although Parnell doesn't rate the route as particularly significant, it goes to show just how quickly Papert adapted to the infamous Scottish winter climbing.
In fact, Parnell states "Much more impressive were her repeats of "Unicorn" and "Blood Sweat and Frozen Tears", both grade VIIIs. As far as I know these are the first grade VIIIs led by a woman in Scotland. I thought she climbed superbly: Scottish climbing is unique and it takes most people several visits to get used to the difficult conditions, long walk ins and often serious traditionally protected routes. Ines picked it up immediately and managed some outstanding leads." The visiting team's climbs are listed below.
Stirling Bridge VI,7 on Aonach Mor
Unicorn VIII,8 in Glen Coe
Blood Sweat and Frozen Tears VIII,8 on Beinn Eighe
Little Nipper VI,8 a new route on Beinn Eighe
North East Buttress IV,5 on Ben Nevis
Audrey Gariepy & Mathieu Audibert
Fall Out Corner VI,7 in the Cairngorms
Smiths Gully VI,5 on Creag Meagaidh
Central Buttress VII,7 in Glen Coe
Central Buttress VI,7 on Beinn Meagaidh
Poachers Fall V,5 on Liathach
Minus One Gully VI,6 on Ben Nevis
Beinn Eighe Far East Wall
First ascent: Ian Parnell, Ines Papert 19th February 2010
1. 30m Boldly climb the shallow right facing groove 5m left of Far East Gully to ledges and then the steep crack to belay below a prominent corner with a crack in its left wall.
2. 30m Climb the corner and then cracks trending slightly left to easier ground to reach the East Ridge of Beinn Eighe.
Thanks to Arc'Teryx