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Nuptse nestled between Everest and Lhotse.
Nuptse nestled between Everest and Lhotse.
Photo by F.Tremolada
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New route on Nuptse by Benoist and Glairon-Rappaz

06.11.2008 by Elio Bonfanti

On 28 October the French mountaineers Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz reached the summit of Nuptse (7861m, Khumbu, Himalaya) via a new route up the grandiose South Face.

The FFME, the Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l'Escalade, has announced that the extremely strong French duo Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz has successfully climbed a new route up the South Face of Nuptse via a line that Rappaz had attempted alone in 2006.

The two climbers departed from Nice on 15 September and, according to plan, reached the summit crest on 28 October after four days non-stop on the mountain. The two topped out after abandoning their first attempt on 18 October due to bad weather.

This grandiose route climbs the South Face direct to the summit, up circa 2300m in pure alpine style to the left of Bonnington's 1961 creation. The French mountaineers descended to Tangboche and reached Kathmandu on 1 November by helicopter as Stephane Benoist suffered serious frostbite on his feet.

Benoist and Glairon-Rappaz have a truly impressive alpine curriculum: Rappaz soloed No Siesta (for which he received the FFME Crystal Award), while Benoist opened a new route up Thalay Sagar. In 2005 the duo climbed a new route alpine style up the West Face to the North Summit of Chomo Lonzo (7199m, Tibet) for which they received a nomination for the 13th Piolet d'Or.

Nuptse is located between two other Himalayan giants, Everest and Lhotse and is considered one of the hardest, most beautiful and desired mountains in the Khumbu valley.


Patrice Glairon-Rappaz

Born on 27 July 1971 in Ugine, Savoia.
Mountain guide and member of the mountain rescue service since 1994, Glairon-Rappaz is also a certified ski instructor. Glairon-Rappaz has repeated many of the great Alpine classics, including the first winter ascent of Divine providence. His travels have taken him to Mount Hunter in Alaska, to Yosemite and his first 8000m peak, Shisha Pangma in 1998. Glairon-Rappaz climbs circa 7c+ on-sight and has carried out numerous solo ascents, including No Siesta on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses which was rewarded with the FME Crystal Award.

Stephane Benoist
Born on 28 March 1971 in Malabry.
Mountain guide since 1998. Benoisthas repeated many of the great Alpine classics and participated in numerous expeditions to the Greater Ranges. In 1998 he climbed a 1500m new line up the virgin Chushubalstering 6000m which netted him the FME Crystal Award. He has redpointed up to 8b+ (Mortal Kombat, Castillon) and has opened new routes on big mountain faces such at the N Face of Kwande and Thalay Sagar. Benoist is widely considered a specialist of the Grandes Jorasses where he has climbed 10 routes including the second winter ascent of “Serge Gousseault”.

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