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The immense West Face of Tofana di Rozes. "Quel calcare nell’anima" and "Mai molar!" climb the pillar on the left.
Photo by arch. M. Sterni
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Tofana di Rozes new routes, Dolomites

27.10.2008 by Planetmountain

In summer 2007 Marco Sterni, Mauro Kraus, Marco Giuffrida and Serena Bonin carried out the first ascent of 'Quel calcare nell'anima' (380m, 6c, 6b obl.) on the West Face of Tofana di Rozes (Dolomites). In summer 2008 Sterni and Mauro Florit made the first ascent of the nearby 'Mai molar! '(380m, 7a+, 6c ol.).

The beautiful Tofana di Rozes continues to unveil new routes. This true symbol of the Dolomites has now been enriched by a further two routes up the West Face at the hands of Sterni and Florit who carried out the first ascents of "Quel calcare nell’anima" and "Mai molar!" on the pillar which marks the left-hand side of the immense wall.

The two routes run side by side and finish on the ledge used by the Ferrate Giovanni Lipelli, without continuing to the summit proper. As Sterni explains, this choice was dictated "by the fear that loose rock could fall onto people on the ferrata." An appropriate decision which, we're certain, will take nothing away from the pleasure people will have in repeating the routes.

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