Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowNever give up– new route on Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites

Never give up (VIII+/IX-, 500m) Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites
Photo by Andrej Grmovsek

Never give up– new route on Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites

11.09.2007 by Planetmountain

In July 2007 the Slovenians Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek made the first ascent of 'Never give up' (VIII+/IX-, VIII+ obl., 500m) on the Pilastro on the Tofana di Rozes (Dolomites).

This summer the Slovenians Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek made the first ascent of a new route on the Tofana di Rozes, “Never give up”, VIII+/IX-, VIII+ obl., 500m. Opened from the ground up in two wekends in July, the route takes a line to the right of "A quarant'anni dalla Cima" (Dal Pra, 1996) and takes the large roof direct, using a mix of natural pro and bolts. According to the first ascentionists, who have repeated important Dolomite testpieces such as Couzy and Camillotto Pellesier on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on their new creation one can expect a "modern old style climbing adventure."

Put in other words: "The climbing is never extremely hard physically but it is constant and always serious. It’s hard to compare our new route with others we've climbed in Dolomites. We climbed physically harder ones, but probably none were so complex. Maybe the route could be compared to some serious Marmolada routes (like Specchio di Sara), where natural protection and long runouts are common. But loose and insecure rock in Tofana’s overhangs is far from the excellent Marmolada limestone. Especially because of this, climbing new ground in Tofana was a big adventure with many physical and mental battles."


"Never give up"
Pilastro di Rozes, Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites
First ascent:
Marko Lukic e Andrej Grmovsek 07/2007
First free ascent: Andrej Grmovsek e Luka Krajnc 08/2007
Grade: VIII+/IX-, VIII+ obl.
Length: 500m
Gear: bolted belays. Some bolts along the route, bring a set of cams to 3#, small tricams, slings
Note: rock still loose in places. Some long runouts.

Share this page

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon
  • Diretta Consiglio
    Salita tanti anni fa, nel 1969, ovviamente senza friend (che ...
    2014-08-18 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Welcome to Tijuana
    Ieri sabato 02 agosto, io e il mio compagno Aldo Mazzotti, s ...
    2014-08-03 / Gianni Canale