Melloblocco newsflash: the boulder problems and party
Newsflash concerning Melloblocco nr. 4: all you need to know about the boulder problems and the new playground; the White Party will go ahead regardless of the weather; the arrival (and thoughts) of Jacky Godoffe... Melloblocco 2007 is just a few hours from kick-off and the number of pre-registered has already hit the 1500 mark!
White Party. Preparations for Saturday night's party at the Sasso di Remenno camp ground are fever pitch: the tent (360 m2!) which was used to cover Rifugio Allievi while it was being rebuilt will now protect the dancing Melloblockers. The mega-party will take place regardless of the weather conditions... and it alone makes the journey worthwhile.
Jacky Godoffe. Fresh from route setting in the Bulgaria stage of the Bouldering World Cup and the French Bouldering Championship, Godoffe reached the valley during a massive thunderstorm and is now itching to try Simone Pedeferri's new problems because "a problem is a bit like a mathematical equation - those who understand it find that the numbers acquire a meaning, just like a beautiful line takes shape in front of your eyes when you look at a boulder".
The Melloblocco population. Over 1500 climbers have already pre-registered, forcing the organisers to order more T-shirts and competition packs... The Melloblocco is ready!
NEW AREA AND NEW BOULDERS by Nicola Noè
The Melloblocco 2007 will take place close to Sasso Remenno and Zocca Superiore: more than 420 problems await all those who want to enjoy themselves in the fascinating and world of rocks and "caves" which is so different yet complementary to the Val di Mello. 280 new problems have been discovered for the occasion, and the circuit is the biggest ever, with numerous problems between the 5a and 6c mark. The lines are beautiful and climb both new boulders and old, forgotten problems from the 1980's and now restored to their original splendour.
If the Melloblocco has to leave a mark then it has definitely done so!
Please take particular care when accessing the beautiful Zocca Superiore area: climbing is possible thanks to special permission granted by the land owners, and climbing will be possible once more in autumn after the fields have be mown for the last time.
THE DIFFICULT PROBLEMS all info by Simone Pedeferri, summed up by Nicola Noè
The 11 prize problems have been set by Simone Pedeferri who describes them briefly below. The first 5 are for the women's competition, the remaining 6 are for the men's comp.
1. PER LE BAMBINE GRANDI - Beautiful, varied problem, physical start through small roof, exit up arete
2. CADI E MUORI - Magnificent high boulder. The name "Fall & Die" is a misnomer: the problem is safe, physical with a difficult start. The central section requires stamina to then finish up big holds. Highly satisfying.
3. VOLDEMORT - Su masso a forma di pera, cinque movimenti, partenza da un sasso e poi via sull’altro, scenografico, ottimo per i fotografi
4. PER VOI GIOVANI - Hisotrical problem with added original start, up slopers with firey finish
5. IL CULO DELL’ELEFANTE - Nerve-biting problem... let's see if an "Indian" manages to ride this elephant !
6. LA STANZA DEI SEGRETI - Powerful roof with enormous dyno to finish up slopers
7. DIAMANTI E SABBIA - Beautiful diamond-shaped boulder with 45° arête, fingery at first, then powerful dyno finish
8. LA SALA GIOCHI - magnificent problem with difficult start, slopers and pinches to exit, excellent for photographs
9. L’UNITA' DI PRODUZIONE - Historical problem, perfect line, 45° wall with exit on small edges
10. TERMINANDO - Physical problem, crimps them slopes, another splendid line
11. IL DINOSAURO - Physical is an understatement: ultra-physical, ultra-endurance, ultra-overhanging... a 10m overhang, definitely a problem which timeless problem, a rare example of a long roof with holds in Val Masino.
N.B. The event will also be held in case of rain (be equipped for it). Participants must bring their own crash pads. The organisers disclaim all responsibility for any injury occurring to participants. Participants wishing to sojourn in the hotels should contact the Porte di Valtellina Tourist office.
Thanks to the Comune di Val Masino and to Stefano Scetti, thanks to ERSAF (6 fantastic days) for the precious cleaning day. Thanks to the Zocca team: Francesco, Antonio, Fabio and Barbara; the route cleaners pulitori Adriano Selva and Antonio Pavan and thanks to the irreplaceable Andrea Barbieri.