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The immense gritstone outcrop Stanage Edge, with over 1300 routes dating all the way back to 1890.
Photo by Alessandro Baù
Ulysse’s Bow (E6 6b), Stanage
Photo by archivio Michele Caminati
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Petition for Stanage Edge in England

18.09.2013 by Planetmountain

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has launched an appeal calling on all climbers and walkers to help safeguard the future if Stanage Edge, England.

It seems impossible but it's true: the future of Stanage Edge - one of the most beautiful, popular and important crags in Britain for trad climbing - is uncertain. The land owners, the Peak District National Park Authority, is currently deciding the future of this long outcrop and moorlands just a stone's throw from the two industrial cities Sheffield and Manchester. The British Mountaineering Council is concerned that the priority may shift from land conservation and free access to generating income from the land.

To safeguard this beautiful area - highly popular with climbers and millions of walkers - the BMC has immediately launched an appeal and, as usual, time is running out: during an official meeting this Friday the BMC would like to bank on at least 10,000 signatures. At present 9732 have stood up for Stanage... to sign the petition follow this link.


STANAGE EDGE

The immense 7km long Stanage Edge is certainly the most famous gritstone crag in England. The outcrop is highly popular, partly because of its proximity to both Sheffield and Manchester, but above all due of its wealth of quality routes. The first climbs date all the way back to 1890 and over 1300 routes have now been established along the edge, ranging from Moderate to desperate E8 - enough to last a lifetime!

The vast majority of routes are relatively easy and ideal therefore for beginners as they tend to follow well-protected crack lines. Having said that, the smooth faces and rounded arête are a brilliant natural playground for those in search of quality testpieces.

Climbers visiting the area for the first time shouldn't miss out on the Flying Buttress at the Popular End and the routes on High Neb. Joe Brown's 1949 Right Unconquerable HVS 5a is the classic route of the crag, but Quietus E2 5c and Old Friends E4 5c are equally famous. The stunning barn door arête Archangel E3 5b at Goliath's Groove is psychologically demanding while its neighbour Ulysses E6 6b is a rite of passage to the upper extremes.

The highly popular Plantation area hosts some of the finest and most famous boulder problems in the country, such as the dream crescendio Crescent Arete Fb 5+, Not to be Taken Away Fb6c, The Green Traverse Fb7a, Brad Pitt Fb7c+ and Jerry Moffat's The Joker Fb 8a.

The outcrop varies in height up to 25m and due to its hilltop location can, at times, be extremely windy and cold. Luckily Hathersage with its warm cafes and welcoming pubs is nearby.

TOPO: Stanage Edge, England

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