Mauro Calibani climbs Hole's Trilogy at Roccamorice
On 14/06/2013 at Roccamorice in Abruzzo (Italy) Mauro Calibani made the first ascent of Hole’s Trilogy, a new 8c. Mauro Calibani provides the report.
The other day I climbed it.
When they showed it to me I was speechless, the boulder was there, still, immobile since who knows when, having fallen from the crag above and stopped just above the river bed; it saw it for the first time at night, in the beam of my head torch it seemed beautiful, silver grey, a piece of precious rock.
It wedged itself into the side of my mind and ever since then I began to yearn to climb it.
Powerful desires frighten me, because when I want but fail to get something, I become hurt, hurt inside.
I decided to put myself to the test.
This time the trick worked, it all worked out for the best.
The line winds its way past a barrage of small pockets, as sharp as razor blades through the centre of the face up slice of 50° overhanging rock.
When I sent it everything fit into just the right place, my body traced harmonious moves while I suffered due to the severe pain of my skin and tendons stacked into the pockets
A special thanks goes to the person who bolted it and I apologise for having changed its name, for having chosen to reinterpret it based on my personal liking (the original name is still written at the base).
A rare line, pure and shamelessly beautiful.
Keep doing what you love!
Keep loving what you do!
by Mauro Calibani