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Mark Thomas on pitch 2, Aiguille Du Midi North Face, Mont Blanc
Photo by Dave Almond
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Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi

09.04.2013 by Planetmountain

On 16/03/2013 the British alpinists Mark Thomas and Dave Almond made the first ascent of a new mixed and ice climb, Jottnar (250m, VIII,8), up the North Face of Aiguille Du Midi, Mont Blanc.

A new climb up the North Face of Aiguille Du Midi: after spending the night at Cosmiques Refuge, on Saturday 16 March British mountain guide Mark Thomas and his climbing partner Dave Almond abseiled down the Goulotte de la Passerelle to climb a 250m high line of ice and mixed located circa 30m to the left of Goulotte Perroux Profit.

Thomas and Almond climbed a "tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto the Cosmiques Arete and was described by Thomas as "mind blowing".

Jottnar finishes directly on the viewing platform at the Aiguille Du Midi station. Thomas explained to Planetmountain that he had noticed this line years ago but added "either I didn't have the time to try it, or conditions were prohibitive. You need certain conditions of thin ice, especially at the top. This time I had a day off and conditions were just right. We set off like boys in a sweet shop!"

More photos and the report on www.elitemountainguides.com

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  • Tovaric
    Via stupenda, gradi stretti e numerosi passaggi obbligatori, ...
    2013-12-16 / MICHELE LUCCHINI
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